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gt40
12-30-2003, 10:15 PM
Time to get serious- a little bit about the new head and a few pics in the gallery:

From Mark at Quantum Racing:
"BJCH (the headshop) lists this package as a stage 5 for DSM. Here is the description (ignore the branding on the springs; you have shiny new Ferrea technology):

The Stage 5 cylinder head is an all out racing head. We vat the head to remove all the carbon and crud for the rebuild. Then we inspect the head for cracks and other imperfections. Next we check the guides and perform our radius valve job. Then we check the head to make sure it’s perfectly flat and then surface as need to make sure that it’s true. Next we put our full competition port on the head to increase airflow. This is the maximum increase to be had in airflow. The competition port job increases airflow to about 80-90 cfm over stock. This port job is so detailed, it takes about 2 days of straight porting to achieve optimum airflow. Finally, your head is reassembled with new seals, new 1mm over stainless steel valves, our exclusive Groden titanium retainers, and a Crower dual spring kit. With this spring kit, you get about 85lbs of spring pressure, which is safe to 9500 rpm"

Kudos to Mark at Quantum for getting the head and intake manifold out to me during the holiday.

EvolOne
12-30-2003, 11:00 PM
how much hp have you increased with this mod? Dyno'd yet?

R2

gt40
12-30-2003, 11:25 PM
Evolone:

Next week we bolt the head, arp studs, an aem cd2i ignition with msd coils + this intake manifold:
http://forums.evolutionm.net/showthread.php?s=&threadid=50794&highlight=Quantumevo

You get a lot more than hp gains with a real race head. Torque, wider powerband and durability + the top end is downright scary. Having a 9k + valvetrain means you don't shift as often and with the gt40 turbo you have a 4100 to 8000 + usable powerband with the motor built right.

As far as power will post dyno charts next week. With stronger rods, balance shafts removed and upgraded bottom end It should be good for 600+ range.

I am not going to be able to do the rest of the internals this round so will probably stick to somewheres over 500 whp goal on race gas. The turbo is good for 32-34 psi-the internals aren't yet!

BTW, the aem ems is running strong at 1.7 bar boost around 450 to the wheels without the head or intake manifold.

I am just following my roadmap to justify this turbo...

GokuSSJ4
12-31-2003, 12:37 AM
wow , im sure that you are going to have lots of fun with this new mod .. good luck on the p n p , i know that sometimes they can be a pain on the ass ... but done right its lots of fun ,
Mark whats your take on RMR flash ??

gt40
12-31-2003, 01:03 AM
GokuSSJ4,

They are local and eric down there has been cool to me so far. They build real race cars so you figure they have a clue like RRE or Brainstorm.

I think you got rmr and brainstorm both offering flashs. It is just a way to tune. Keep that in mind. Do your mods and then tune a little...

good luck

GokuSSJ4
12-31-2003, 09:56 AM
thanks since i plan to run 264/272 cams which i already have just need to be install , and also the AVO FMIC. To see if i can accomplish 320whp with out upgrading the stock turbo with turbonetics . Not sure if to get a EBC but i dont plan to run more the 19psi of boost just to be safe ...

gt40
12-31-2003, 10:21 AM
You should be able to run 22- 23 psi without worries. I ran 23-24 psi for the past 5 months on the stock internals including 3 hard track days.

Arp studs and you should be fine till 500 hp. The intercooler is awesome btw. You will notice it now and get even greater benefits if you do more mods down the road.

GokuSSJ4
12-31-2003, 08:32 PM
so if i do the head studs , you should be fine at 21 psi of boost ?? im picking up a set then . also how would you compare the AVO FMIC to the one that RMR sells PWR ??
Since i know there intercooler is also 750.00 compare to the AVO which is 900.00

gt40
01-01-2004, 02:11 AM
If you run arp studs you can run a lot more than 21-22 psi. Keep in mind that I have been running the gt40 kit with stock internals and no studs to 24 psi for the past 5 months and am at the 450 whp range now.

That said, a 100 bucks for the arp and install costs + a head gasket if you want to do it right buys piece of mind. Then you are good to the 500 range on the stock rods.

On the intercooler, no contest the avo flows a lot more and higher quality... not worth upgrading if you are going with the pwr imo.

ItsStockOfficer
01-01-2004, 03:04 AM
If you run arp studs you can run a lot more than 21-22 psi. Keep in mind that I have been running the gt40 kit with stock internals and no studs to 24 psi for the past 5 months and am at the 450 whp range now.

That said, a 100 bucks for the arp and install costs + a head gasket if you want to do it right buys piece of mind. Then you are good to the 500 range on the stock rods.

On the intercooler, no contest the avo flows a lot more and higher quality... not worth upgrading if you are going with the pwr imo.

Doing them one at a time is perfectly fine assuming the hg seal is good and the cars cold. In fact, when you retorque head studs 1000 miles or so later, you do it by breaking them loose one at a time the retorquieing them, so there is no practical difference.

GokuSSJ4
01-01-2004, 02:13 PM
so you would remove the head and install a new head gasket , just to change the head bolts ?? Dont see the effort on that . Might as well do head work if you are removing the head lol ... ( is not an option ) removing the head ... So if it requires the head to be remove for studs not worth it IMO ...

gt40
01-01-2004, 02:57 PM
Doing them one at a time is perfectly fine assuming the hg seal is good and the cars cold. In fact, when you retorque head studs 1000 miles or so later, you do it by breaking them loose one at a time the retorquieing them, so there is no practical difference.

Yeah, you got about an 80% chance of doing it that way. You still have to torque the studs in the right sequence and lube them properly. That is the real problem. It is sometimes a problem to get the threads properly coated as the stuff comes off going through the head and gasket first.

ItsStockOfficer
01-01-2004, 05:02 PM
Who qouted you this 80% figure? I have worked on DSM's and such for a long time and It has never not worked. In one case the car gas a small HG leaked and doing this fixed it, although I would never recomend that.

Its not a difficult thing to aim...I would say 95% of the lube makes it into the bolt hole.

gt40
01-01-2004, 07:51 PM
I come from the big block v8 world until this romp with my evo. I have seen installs fail on more than one occasion...

I quoted rre from their site and a conversation I had with them on the phone. Yes it should work if you are careful... I am swapping my head for this new one anyway so its a mute point...

Anyone wanting to try doing the arp studs without removing the head... why not? you blow your head gasket you have to replace it anyway and if it works, you saved a 100 for a new gasket and a little time. You just have to torque it properly, use the lube and be careful and torque in sequence...

ItsStockOfficer
01-01-2004, 11:18 PM
I come from the big block v8 world until this romp with my evo. I have seen installs fail on more than one occasion...

I quoted rre from their site and a conversation I had with them on the phone. Yes it should work if you are careful... I am swapping my head for this new one anyway so its a mute point...

Anyone wanting to try doing the arp studs without removing the head... why not? you blow your head gasket you have to replace it anyway and if it works, you saved a 100 for a new gasket and a little time. You just have to torque it properly, use the lube and be careful and torque in sequence...

By torque in sequence what do you mean? You remove and fully torque one at a time. Or at least i do...Although I do go center outwards for kicks, i doubt even that matters. i suppose this is not something you should do unless you can afford to do it the right way as well.

Coolguy949
01-02-2004, 01:38 AM
FYI, RRE runs 29 psi on ARP head studs. I think you're all fine. :) THe stock studs can take up to 23 - 25 psi. You're just really close to the limit there.

GokuSSJ4
01-02-2004, 02:39 AM
is always to be on the safe side instead of pushing something to the limit ...