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View Full Version : Need step by step on how to change brake pads



CACalomino
01-28-2004, 11:56 PM
I need to change my pads on before the FEB 7 track day but I dont know how I know its easy and u just ahve to take out a pin or something but can somebody show me pics and or a link to how its done step by step. I also need to know where the bleeder valve is on the calipers.

thanks

chris

NRG
01-29-2004, 01:00 AM
I can't tell you step by step but I can give you a basic instruction......All you do is unbolt the whole caliper so it will come off the rotor. You do not need to remove the brake line. Don't let your caliper hang by the line either, get something to prop it up. Then, pop out the pads. After that get a C-clamp to push the pistons back in or else you won't be able to fit the pads.......Before you fit the pads in, use brake cleaner spray to spray out all the debris and brake dust.....Also get some brake noise reducer spray and spray that on the shims between the pads and the caliper. After you do all that then fit the pads in.......putting the caliper back on is just the reverse......

Hope that helps a bit......

gt40
01-29-2004, 09:23 AM
I would suggest you don't take off the calipers unless you now how to bleed them properly. Messing with your brakes just before a track day if you have never done it before.... :roll:

First of all you don't need to take the calipers off to replace the pads.

Pop the 2 retaining pins on the front sides and pull the clip. they will come out and you can do it in about 10 minutes a side if you are careful.

I would still have it done professionally or watch it done first to understand all the issues. If you go the other route and remove the calipers, you got to bleed both sides btw and you better make sure you get all the air out!

Do it the by removing the pins- much better.

I got this trick from blurr and was able to take my pads out and put them back in about 10 minutes a side not knowing my way around on this particular brake setup.

Before a track day, might as well have them done properly though if you are not absolutely sure you know what you are doing...

apexstrafer
01-29-2004, 04:11 PM
GT, just wondering, why would you have to bleed the lines if you take off the calipers? Not removing the lines, but just unbolting the caliper to make it easier to get to the pads and push the pistons in to make room for the new pads... That's how I do it every time and never got any air in the system.

robi
01-29-2004, 04:45 PM
butting in here...You don't but these calipers were designed for quick exchange of the pads... tools = small nail set/hammer. large screwdriver/prybar & wood wedge (1/4" to about 1" and the stuff in your trunk to take off your wheel.. 1 remove wheel two use prybar to compress the pistons (wedge the wood in once the pistons are all the way back in the caliper) drive out pins...slip out pads...insert new pads using your fav anti/squeek reinsert pins and drive home put on wheel "your done". I'll help any one @ T-Hill. (Show up early!).

NRG
01-29-2004, 09:20 PM
It is always good to bleed the brakes after any kind of brake work.....On a side note, SpeedBleeders sell one-man bleeder nipples which I've gotten for my cars in the past. They work very well as you will not need two guys to bleed the brakes........

racerferrari
01-29-2004, 09:55 PM
easy easy change out.....just pull the wheels......have a small hammer and a small punch.....bang the pins out from the outside of the car towards the wheel wells.... pull out the T bracket...pull out the pads...if they are a little stuck...push with hand side to side ..that will loosen...pull out....make sure you get some that brake goo...stuff...i forget what you call it....but if ya going with some race pads...it will stop them from squeeling....because that is the worst.....anyways...put new pads in put pins back in and bleed your brakes...its always good to bleed them....we do it twice a weekend at the track...it helps....make sure you put the pins all the way back in.....it took me bout 20 to 30 mins to do the whole job...then go about 70 to 0....5 times really quick that'll break them in...and your all set

Temjin
01-31-2004, 07:08 PM
Did my first break pad change today. Was easy as heck as long as you move the old brake pads back far enough to decompress the pistons. Used the service manual and the posted instructions to figure it out. Thanks guys :D .

Gear Grinder
07-04-2005, 08:11 AM
...insert new pads using your fav anti/squeek ...I installed my brake pads (Ferodo ds 2500)about a week ago. From that time the right front will not stop squealing. I've taken it apart three times to try different products. Every thing from the orange brake pad goo, to permatex antisieze. nothing seems to help. Can anyone recomend a specific product, and where to get it.

alfredob1
07-04-2005, 11:31 AM
A little visual aide:

http://www.socalevo.net/gallery/albums/album84/brakes1.jpg

http://www.socalevo.net/gallery/albums/album84/brakes2.jpg

Chris in SD
07-04-2005, 02:51 PM
Thread back from the dead...

Gear Grinder
07-04-2005, 03:51 PM
Thread back from the dead...back, but not dead. Still no answer on a specific product to stop the squeal. oh well, I'll just turn up the radio. :cry:

Chris in SD
07-04-2005, 03:53 PM
You might call RMR and ask what they use. IIRC, it was a red anti-squeal compound that was about as viscous as strawberry jelly. Good luck, mang...

dyuyeno
07-04-2005, 06:39 PM
Thread back from the dead...back, but not dead. Still no answer on a specific product to stop the squeal. oh well, I'll just turn up the radio. :cry:

Tyler at Works recommends Disk Brake Quiet. Works pretty good for me. Make sure its completely dry before you put the pads back in!

I get it at Kragen auto supply...

Gear Grinder
07-05-2005, 06:44 AM
Thread back from the dead...back, but not dead. Still no answer on a specific product to stop the squeal. oh well, I'll just turn up the radio. :cry:

Tyler at Works recommends Disk Brake Quiet. Works pretty good for me. Make sure its completely dry before you put the pads back in!

I get it at Kragen auto supply...Thats the orange goo I was talking about. The second time I used it I let it dry for almost two hours. Thanks though. I think I will try a couple of 100mph to 0 stops, and see if that doesn't seat them in better.