BOV question

[BSREVO]

I know this has probably been asked and answered a million times, but im going to ask one more. is anyone running a aftermartket bov that is being vented into the atmosphere? im looking at a tial or the turbo xs rfl, but i dont want to have any problems with it. or does anyone know if the dynoflash could fix something like this? thanks justin

[Blak94GSX]

Basically as long as you have a MAF upstream of the BOV, you shouldn't vent the BOV.

The HKS super sequential is total crap. The Greddy is decent, just have to get it with the right adapter kit. The TIAL BOV is a very high quality unit, but it doesn't allow for recirculation.

[QuickShifter]

The dyno flash wont fix shit, you need a full stand alone system like the ems, but im not sure if it has a bov function, probably though.....on the other hand, bov is a waist of time unless your running 24 lbs or higher, plus it really doesnt "spool" the turbo up ANY quicker thn the stock one will and with all the associated problems, stalling, idle, blah blah blah, its one of the worste decisions when trying to upgrade your evo little by little

[BSREVO]

thanks...upstream means close to the TB??? no in the stock position? thanks again. jc

[Blak94GSX]

Upstream meaning the MAF meters the air before the point in the IC piping at which the BOV dumps it out. If you had a MAF that was after the BOV, just before the throttle body then the BOV venting would be irrelevant. The stock MAF however cannot handle the temperatures or pressures associated with being mounted after the turbo. There are other options like using a hotwire style MAF with a converter box to emulate the stock Karmann Vortex frequency style MAF, but that is an overly complicated solution at this point.

In short, get a BOV that doesn't leak and can be routed back into the intake. Keep in mind that these criteria exclude almost every BOV on the market...

[Chris in SD]

Stock BOV works fine until you are boosting in the 24 psi range... A ton of guys out here in VA switched back to stock after trying Greddy, HKS, Forge, RFL, etc. All of them had one problem or another. For all the people who say the stock one sucks or splits or whatever, ask to see one they've split... Case closed.

[drwn kix]

I agree. I have no problems with stock at 20psi. Turbo spools to 20 at 3200 rpm. It didn't work so well and sounded more interesting when the dealer installed it backward. LOL

[Blak94GSX]

In theory the stock BOV will hold boost indefinitely as the spring pressure of the valve is supplemented by the boost pressure on top of the diaphragm. The problem is that the stock BOV is cheaply made and some of them leak at the top of the valve where the diaphragm section is molded in 2 separate pieces and then joined together. If there is a leak at the seam then the boost pressure augmenting the spring pressure to hold the valve closed is reduced and the valve can be blown open by the pressure in the IC pipe. JB Weld around the seam of the BOV can help seal it, but you don't want to do this unless you really have a problem with it leaking. Also the valve seat has a poor fit with the plastic body, which allows some leakage. This is not as easy to fix.

This would be easier to explain with pics... oh well

[559EVO]

What about the duel vent BOV's?Any comments on these?

BLAK94GSX
Why do you say the HKS is crap???

[Blak94GSX]

Mostly because it surges, leaks and can't be routed back into the intake very well. I recommend them for Supras though... Keeps them in my rearview.

[gt40]

Good info and welcome back...

[drwn kix]

Mostly because it surges, leaks and can't be routed back into the intake very well. I recommend them for Supras though... Keeps them in my rearview.
What would you recommend? Stock or aftermarket if you have to buy one. :?

[Anonymous]

I purchased the TurboXS RFL and im pushing 20 psi, its okay for now, depends on how much psi your running, i put in two washers to adjust my BOV, sometimes i feel like its leaking boost, but i cant do shit. I still like it because its loud, its great for looks, but i would always buy one for the performance when i know im racing or canyon running, id stay stock if i cant afford to waste money to buy another aftermarket BOV.

[Blak94GSX]

I recommend using the stock BOV until it is a problem, then getting the Greddy with the proper adapter kit so it mounts right.

You'll know there is a problem with the BOV when the car bucks and fuel cuts for no good reason.

[Chris in SD]

One of my first questions to the RMR guys (which led me down the twisted tuner road I now am a slave to) was about BOVs. They popped the hood on the Evo VII rally car and lo and behold, stock BOV. Enough said...

A side note (Tony might appreciate this): In the UK and Germany, do you want to know what Evo owners worry about? "What brake pad lasts longer?" "What tire gets more grip?" "Where can I get a better stereo?" Notice none of them worry about the clutch, the BOV, the IC, etc. etc. This is not a knock on SoCalEvo - you know I love you guys or else I wouldn't still follow this board since I live in VA now. This points out that we worry about problems too much rather than enjoying what we have. This is especially true on the EvoM board where the slightest noise over a bump draws a 250-post thread. :roll:

[Novtec1]

im using a 1g crushed bov..but im dumpin back into the intake...got the dejon uicp im not having any problems at all.... i already had the bov and the icp was 125 bucks..... made my own dump tube for like 4 bucks....