HOW TO: clutch pedal adjustment...

[gt40]

I have had problems of late with the car being difficult to shift- 4 to 5th grind(synchro maybe) and it is really hard to get the car into reverse. Â*
Discovered that the evo has an adjustable engagement via the clutch pedal. Â*

The idea here is that maybe the clutch doesn't fully disengage.

To adjust the clutch pedal:

Take the lower plastic section off under the steering wheel. Â*There are 2 screws and Â*to bolts for the steel under carrage and it comes right out. Â*After that it gets more interesting. Â*Lay on your back on the floor with your head by the clutch with a flash light and a 10mm wrench. Â*You will see a shaft going through the firewall that moves in when you depress the clutch. Â*there is a bracket with a bolt you loosen and then rotate the shaft (it is threaded) so it moves more into the firewall piece. Â*Do a little and test- maybe 1/2 a turn or so and take it for a drive. Â*The engagement changes a lot just by moving the shaft a little. Â*Once you have it right, tighten the bolt and put the pieces back.

My clutch is Â*much easier now to shift and the problem getting it to get into reverse is gone. Â*Still have 4 gear to 5th grind but it isn't as bad. Â* Â*

You may want to do this after a new clutch because after a few weeks, it will need some adjustment in many cases.

[gt40]

WOW, taking a post from 2004 back from the dead...

I can tell you the info I posted a YEAR and a half ago was curtosy of Dr. Gray and yes it does help if you adjust the engagement. Have it done right at RRE if you are not sure of what you are doing.

[Coolguy949]

Just FYI: You need a 12mm wrench. Unless Mark has a different nut in there...no I don't mean the driver. You shouldn't have to remove the plastic, just slide under the dash.

[C-Spec]

1. Slide the driver seat all the way back and look at the back of the clutch pedal (flash or drop light helps!).

Adjusting the clutch pedal is very easy. Simply loosen the lock nut from the bracket connecting the push rod to the back of the clutch pedal. With the lock nut loose, the rod can be turned to move the clutch pedal higher or lower. This will in turn increase or decrease the rod travel (and hydraulic movement) and dictate "where" in the pedal the clutch engages.

For the most part, the rod can simply be turned by hand. Wiggling the clutch pedal while turning the rod can make it easier, but there is a flattened location on the rod to use an 8mm wrench if turning it by hand is not possible.

To move the rod higher and increase travel (move engagement up), turn the rod clockwise. To reduce the travel (move engagement down), turn the rod counter-clockwise.

TECH TIP: If an aftermarket clutch is installed and there is trouble getting into gears or it won't go into gear at all, the clutch is likely not being fully disengaged when the pedal is in. To overcome this, adjust the pedal higher.

http://www.socalevo.net/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=2493.0;id=6278;ima ge


2. Once the pedal is close, a few test drives and shifts will allow it to be dialed in for your clutch and feel. Do not forget to tighten the lock nut on the rod down before driving!

TECH TIP: try to adjust the pedal and do test drives/shifts with the tranny and clutch warm. If the adjustment is too "close", it may be fine when cold and get notchy or not fully disengage once everything warms up and the clutch expands with heat.

[trinydex]

http://www.roadraceengineering.com/evo/tech/evoclutchadjust.htm

EVO Clutch Adjustment
Anytime the clutch is replaced, especially with an aftermarket clutch, you MUST readjust the pedal.Â*

The main adjustment for the EVO clutch is the rod that extends from the pedal assembly into the clutch master cylinder on the firewall. To see it you need to slid the driver's seat all the way back and crawl into the pedal area. Follow the clutch pedal upwards and look for the gold clevis piece.

http://www.socalevo.net/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=2493.0;id=6565;ima ge

This is a photo that shows the rod in a short adjustment. Like this, you will be more likely to have shifting problems. The rod needs to be longer so that you get enough travel into the cutch master cylinder.

http://www.socalevo.net/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=2493.0;id=6566;ima ge

This photo shows a rod after adjustment. It is now longer.

http://www.socalevo.net/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=2493.0;id=6567;ima ge

To make the adjustment, use a 12mm wrench and loosen the lock nut. You will then be able to turn the rod by hand to get a little more travel and therefore release.Â*

http://www.socalevo.net/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=2493.0;id=6568;ima ge

http://www.socalevo.net/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=2493.0;id=6571;ima ge

http://www.socalevo.net/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=2493.0;id=6572;ima ge

You need at least 1mm-3mm of free play (B) at the top of the pedal travel when all is done.If you have the rod adjusted too long, the throw out bearing may be under constant pressure and may even not allow the clutch to fully engage. You need to be sure that there is some free play at the top of the pedal travel.Â*

If you run out of free play at the top of the pedal, you can get a little more upstroke out of it by raising the stop at the top of the pedal assembly. I had to move the fuse box out of the way slightly to gain access to the stop.

http://www.socalevo.net/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=2493.0;id=6569;ima ge

Here you can see a 14mm wrench loosening the lock nut. The stop is actually a switch. Loosen the 14mm nut and then you will be able to rotate the switch assembly counter clockwise to get more travel out of the pedal.Â*

http://www.socalevo.net/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=2493.0;id=6570;ima ge

[trinydex]

For what it's worth, here is what the repair manual says on the subject:
CLUTCH PEDAL CHECK AND ADJUSTMENT
1.Turn up the carpet etc. under the clutch pedal.

2.Measure the clutch pedal height.
Standard value (A): 202.1 - 206.1 mm (7.96 - 8.11 inch)

3.If the height of the clutch pedal is outside the standard value, loosen the setting nut to adjust the pedal height to the standard value.

4.Measure the clutch pedal clevis pin play.
Standard value (B): 1 - 3 mm (0.04 - 0.12 inch)

5.If the clutch pedal clevis pin play is not within the standard value, loosen the setting nut to adjust the clutch pedal clevis pin play to the standard value.

6.After completing the adjustments, confirm that the clutch pedal free play (measured at the face of the pedal pad) and the distance between the clutch pedal (the face of the pedal pad) and the clutch pedal stopper when the clutch is disengaged are within the standard value ranges.
Standard value (C): 4 - 13 mm (0.16 - 0.51 inch)
Standard value (D): 114.3 mm (4.5 inches) or more
7.If the clutch pedal free play and the distance between the clutch pedal and the clutch pedal stopper when the clutch is disengaged do not agree with the standard values, it is probably the result of either air in the hydraulic system or a faulty master cylinder, clutch cylinder or clutch. Bleed the air, or disassemble and inspect the master cylinder, clutch cylinder or clutch.
8.Reinstall the carpet, etc.

RRE Note:

With an aftermarket clutch you may be out of this factory range. This is because of the way the aftermarket clutches get their additional clamping load by messing with pivot points inside the pressure plate. This often requires more pedal travel and is why you ALWAYS need to check the adjustment.

[trinydex]

Clutch and related torque specs:
FASTENER TIGHTENING SPECIFICATIONS

Â*

ITEMS SPECIFICATIONS
Clutch cover mounting bolt 18 ± 3 N·m (13 ± 2 ft-lb)
Clutch fluid line bracket bolt 18 ± 3 N·m (13 ± 2 ft-lb)
Clutch release cylinder air bleeder 11 ± 1 N·m (97 ± 8 in-lb)
Clutch release cylinder mounting bolt 18 ± 3 N·m (13 ± 2 ft-lb)
Clutch release cylinder union bolt 22 ± 2 N·m (16 ± 1 ft-lb)
Clutch tube flare nut 15 ± 2 N·m (11 ± 1 ft-lb)
Release fork shaft locking bolt 9.8 ± 2.0 N·m (87 ± 17 in-lb)



ITEM SPECIFICATION
Clutch control Clutch release cylinder mounting bolt 18 ± 3 N·m (13 ± 2 ft-lb)
Clutch master cylinder mounting nut 12 ± 2 N·m (102 ± 22 in-lb)
Clutch pipe flare nut 15 ± 1 N·m (11 ± 1 ft-lb)
Eye bolt 30 ± 4 N·m (22 ± 3 ft-lb)
Pushrod jam nut 13 ± 2 N·m (111 ± 22 in-lb)
Retainer assembly nut 12 ± 2 N·m (102 ± 22 in-lb)
Clutch pedal Clutch master cylinder mounting nut 12 ± 2 N·m (102 ± 22 in-lb)
Clutch pedal assembly mounting bolt 12 ± 2 N·m (102 ± 22 in-lb)
Clutch pedal position switch setting nut 12 ± 2 N·m (109 ± 21 in-lb)

[RCTEVO]

After 4.5 years - way helpful!!!

Glad I checked. My 2nd clutch (Unorthodox) is wearing and trying to get as much life out of it as possible before dropping the big $$$ on a new Exedy or HKS twin plate.
The Unorthodox has been great, but due to other mods and a few more planned it just can't take the abuse of the extra torque.

[shunsai]

thanks, i need to adjust mine also

[rsardelli]

i have been trying to do this forever, thanks for the how-to

[timemasheen]

^^^^^+1

[monsterevo9]

verry helpful

[vernisog]

Anyone who doesn't know about this needs to see it. It's so easy and you really do have to only turn it a TINY bit. Man this made driving so much better lol.