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View Full Version : HOW TO: Change ALL DRIVELINE FLUIDS



gt40
05-28-2004, 10:26 PM
Changing your fluid is easy- took me less than 10 minutes

1. Â*Jack up the front of the car and put a jack stand under it.

2. Â*Get a 17mm and 24mm socket and a catch pail handy under the car.

3. Â*Undo the fill plug first (17mm) in order to avoid glugging (don't forget the washer!!!).

4. Â*Undo the drain plug (24mm) second and drain all the fluid out. make sure to position the waste pail accordingly.

A NOTE THE 6 SPEED TRANSMISSION USES TWO 10mm ALLEN SOCKETS FOR DRAIN AND FILL.

5. Â*Screw the drain plug in (don't forget the washer!!!) and get a funnel with a long flexible spout (4 bucks from pep boys) and stick in the side of the fill hole.

if you use just the funnel with flex you'll likely have to remove your intake in order to fill from above. if you get some 3/8" rubber hose (about 18" should do) then you can seal off the fill hole (no leaking while filling) AND you don't have to remove the intake!

6. Â*Pour new fluid in until it starts to come out of the drain hole (It is sideways) or around 3 quarts. YOU SHOULD ALWAYS FILL WITH YOUR CAR AT A PERFECTLY FLAT OR A SLIGHT POSITIVE INCLINE (front two wheels off the ground) this overfills the tranny as apposed to underfilling it and keeps things MUCH happier!!! this way it'll take 3 bottles of fluid and there's not guessing if you had too much spill out.

7. Â*Put back fill plug. plugs should only be hand tight, torque specs are good, but don't hamfist them on or you'll be sorry!

DONE!

this is what your fill plug should not look like (dirty)

http://www.socalevo.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10991/normal_mURI_temp_bcb72b5a.jpg

this is what it should look like (clean)

http://www.socalevo.net/gallery/albums/uploads/gt40/normal_drain_plug_after.jpg

admittedly these pics aren't helpful.

drain

http://www.socalevo.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10991/mURI_temp_fc1b065c.jpg

fill

http://www.socalevo.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10991/mURI_temp_fb4defb0.jpg

these are better:

http://www.socalevo.net/gallery/albums/uploads/gt40/normal_drain_and_fill_001.jpg

http://www.socalevo.net/gallery/albums/uploads/gt40/normal_filling.jpg

This was really easy and I am kicking myself for not doing it more often after seeing the metal shards on the plug. Â*I used bg synchroshift after getting some info from RRE and robi.

GET 4 QUARTS.

BOLD IS TRINYDEX SPEAKING

here's the SIX SPEED TRANNY PICS

http://www.socalevo.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10991/normal_Change%20All%20Driveline%20Fluids_11.JPG
DRAIN

http://www.socalevo.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10991/normal_Change%20All%20Driveline%20Fluids_10.JPG
FILL

trinydex
08-14-2006, 05:26 PM
please read this before asking any questions about driveline fluids.

http://www.socalevo.net/index.php?option=com_smf&Itemid=26&topic=25953.0

trinydex
08-14-2006, 07:21 PM
TRANSFER CASE drain and fill.

Locate the appropriate fill and drain plugs. The ones for the transfer case are located closer towards the center of the car, behind the exhaust manifold. The fill plugs will always be located higher than the drain plugs.

Here is a pic showing the drain and fill holes:

transfer case drain:

http://www.socalevo.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10991/mURI_temp_3870b950.jpg

transfer case fill:

http://www.socalevo.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10991/mURI_temp_73f1690c.jpg

the fill hole is a bit above the downpipe.

1. Open the fill plug first and clean the plug, be sure to remove both the plug as well as the metal washer. When I removed my transfer case fill plug, fluid ran from the fill hole so be prepared.

2. Put the oil catch pan underneath the drain plug and slowly undo the drain plug making sure that you also remove the metal washer. As the fluid drains, you may have to move the catch pan to prevent oil from leaking to the ground. drains real fast, only .6 quarts.

3. Clean the drain plug (you will find lots of tiny metal bits attached to the magnetic portion of the transfer case drain plug).

4. Once the stream of fluid has ceased, put the drain plug back. Be sure to remember to put the metal washer back on as well. If you have a torque wrench all the plugs should be tightened to 23 ft.lb.

5. Now, take the gear oil pump and run the hose into the fill hole. it's nice to have a hose long enough so you can sit the bottle on the ground and pump. but that just means more fluid that you're gonna have to pump back into the bottle when you're finished.

ALWAYS FILL YOUR TRANSFER CASE WITH THE CAR AT A PERFECTLY FLAT OR SLIGHT ANGLE SO YOU'RE OVER FILLING IT AND NOT UNDER FILLING IT!!! ALSO NOTE!!!

6. Pump the correct fluid into the diff. just keep pomping until fluid runs from the fill hole. it should take about .6 quarts.Â*

7. Replace the fill plug. Be sure to remember the metal washer.

http://www.socalevo.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10991/normal_CIMG2108.JPG

this is the rear diff

1. Open the fill plug first and clean the plug, be sure to remove both the plug as well as the metal washer. When I removed my rear diff fill plug, fluid ran from the fill hole so be prepared.

2. Put the oil catch pan underneath the drain plug and slowly undo the drain plug making sure that you also remove the metal washer. As the fluid drains, you may have to move the catch pan to prevent oil from leaking to the ground. drains real fast, only .6 quarts.

3. Clean the drain plug (you will find lots of tiny metal bits attached to the magnetic portion of the transfer case drain plug).

4. Once the stream of fluid has ceased, put the drain plug back. Be sure to remember to put the metal washer back on as well. If you have a torque wrench all the plugs should be tightened to 23 ft.lb.

5. Now, take the gear oil pump and run the hose into the fill hole. it's nice to have a hose long enough so you can sit the bottle on the ground and pump. but that just means more fluid that you're gonna have to pump back into the bottle when you're finished.

ALWAYS FILL YOUR REAR DIFF WITH THE CAR AT A PERFECTLY FLAT OR NEGATIVE ANGLE SO YOU'RE OVER FILLING IT AND NOT UNDER FILLING IT!!! ALSO NOTE!!! clutch type differentials require a certain amount of friction to operate without chatter, you must use friction modifyer for fluids that don't already have it mixed in. that stuff stinks like fish too, so just get the stuff that already has it mixed in.

6. Pump the correct fluid into the diff. just keep pomping until fluid runs from the fill hole. it should take about .6 quarts.

7. Replace the fill plug. Be sure to remember the metal washer.

trinydex
08-24-2006, 02:23 PM
due to some possible misunderstanding and liability issues it's proper for me to note that overfilling the transmission can lead to transmission seal rupture. the notes to overfill the transmission are not intended for you to keep filling until everything spews out while you're at an incline!!!

it is meant so that you can assuredly fill the the transmission up to the specified amount of fluid in the manual. it is important to take note of what type of position your car is in when you fill. underfilling is bad. basically do not ever try to fit more than 3 quarts of fluid into the transmission, that is bad. between the specified amount of fluid and 3 quarts should keep things comfortable and happy.

all stock
04-05-2009, 05:42 PM
hey guys, i was checking the service manual right now, and this is what i came up with for "rear axle oil change"
the rear diff drain bolt should be torqued to 47ft lbs, and the fill bolt should be at 37 ft lbs

the xfer case and tranny both are 23ft lbs

can anyone explain why we're doing 23 for rear diff, or is it just an oversight?

http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c22/bboibteck/evoreardifftorquespecs.jpg

white9
04-05-2009, 06:20 PM
Thank YOU!!!

VinceR
04-05-2009, 06:27 PM
I just did my rear diff today, real easy, did it at a negative angle, thanks TRINYDEX

white9
04-05-2009, 06:50 PM
Can someone please post exactly which fluids i should buy. How many, and where i can purchase them at?

Mike W
04-06-2009, 09:53 AM
For trannies, Straight Redline MT-90 gives the best protection. For cars with cold shifting issues use a Redline MT-90/MTL mix. Start with Redline MT-90 and add progessively more Redline MTL till it shifts nice. You need to buy three quarts.

For the transfer case use Redline Heavyweight Shockproof here in So Cal. You need to buy one quart.

For the rear diff use the Redline 75/90 Gear Oil. Race cars use Shockproof with LSD additive. You need to buy one quart.

Shockproof is not for the transmission.

EVO 8/9 Fluid Capacities:

Engine Oil (w/filter) 4.5 qts
Manual Transmission 2.9 qts
Transfer CaseÂ* .58 qt
Rear Differential .58 qt
Cooling System 7.4 qts

Where to buy it? www.roadraceengineering.com in Santa Fe Springs, CA of course :-)


Mike W

white9
04-06-2009, 10:04 AM
awesome! Thank you!

KarbonEvo9
05-06-2009, 02:06 AM
pretty sweeeet! thanks for the details. :grin:

HMatt
05-07-2009, 01:55 PM
What are the recommended Mileages for changing all this stuff anyway?

2muchboost
05-07-2009, 02:24 PM
What are the recommended Mileages for changing all this stuff anyway?


After every track day!
:)

HMatt
05-07-2009, 04:17 PM
Lol, thanks...

Now to be more specific.... For us daily driver folk, what are the recommended change intervals?

My Haynes manual hasn't come in yet and i just cracked 30K, I know that's a milestone of maintenance for most cars.

one4
05-07-2009, 08:16 PM
the manual that came with the car has all the recommended maintenance info...check your glove box

HMatt
05-08-2009, 07:16 AM
Umm... If I had that, I wouldn't have asked.

I know the little icon under my name says "Not So Newbie" but trust me, I am not a newb to vehicles. And I was going to order a new one to replace the one that wasn't in the car when I bought it, but I found a haynes manual from a dud online for like 5 bucks more. Why buy the shortened version when you can have the whole shabang for a little more?

I've just got time to kill this weekend and it won't be comming in until next weekend, plus I think if you are going to have this thread up in the firstplace, it should include when to change them, as well as how to change them. I know on my old eclipse, I just would change everything everytime I changed the timing belt, I'm sure at least the tranny oil should be done more often than that in these cars, right?

one4
05-08-2009, 06:24 PM
oil change every 5k but i go 3k.
tcase and tranny 15k but i go 10-12k

and at 30k ur supposed to do transfer oil, motor oil, tranny, coolant, and drive belts. :mitsu:

airforce1
05-08-2009, 09:03 PM
subscribed

HMatt
05-09-2009, 05:19 PM
Thanks one4. Glad someone didn't find it too difficult to post up the info.

Guess I'll start getting all the oils together then.

EvoDude13
05-13-2009, 04:24 PM
hey guys, i was checking the service manual right now, and this is what i came up with for "rear axle oil change"
the rear diff drain bolt should be torqued to 47ft lbs, and the fill bolt should be at 37 ft lbs

the xfer case and tranny both are 23ft lbs

can anyone explain why we're doing 23 for rear diff, or is it just an oversight?

http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c22/bboibteck/evoreardifftorquespecs.jpg


I noticed no one has answered this question? Are these the right torque specs?

Masterdebater
05-26-2009, 05:37 PM
what do u guys feel about using royal purple? since it can be bought at mmore local stores :D

HMatt
05-26-2009, 06:03 PM
Well, you'd be surprised how many shops do not recommend it. Mostly refer to it as overpriced crap. I've used it before, but I didn't notice a difference, so went back to the mobil 1. Kinda funny that now royal purple is cheaper than certain formulations of mobile 1.
That's for engine oil.

The rest, it's not worth skimping on. I mean, you'll save what? $20 by going with royal purple over the redline stuff? $20 for 30K is not worth saving to me. My drivetrain longevity is worth the extra money.

And you can order it online, and extra week or two waiting for the good stuff won't kill you.

Masterdebater
05-27-2009, 01:33 PM
ive never gotten to use redline products (though many buddies use it and recommend it) just didnt know how it standed to RP. thanks i dont think saving 20 bux over a span of 30k miles is worth skimping either.

Blackswdsman
08-04-2009, 09:18 PM
is it ok to use the transmission fluid to the transfer case fluid??? and is it also ok to use the same fluid use for the transmission and transfer case fluid to the rear diff fluid? because i have replaced the transmission fluid and drained the transfer case fluid... i have not yet put any fluids to the transfer case cuz i dont know if i can use the same fluid that i used for the transmission to the transfer case? and im also gonna do the rear diff fluid replacement but i dont know what fluid to use on that one? is it all 3 places use different fluids? please help the nooby evo owner :smitten: thank you :coolsmiley:

Mike W
08-04-2009, 10:42 PM
No no no. THey DO NOT all use the same fluid. This is no rookie stuff. You put the wrong fluid in the wrong hole or fill it up improperly and you are looking at $2k to $3k of dead stuff.

Redline Heavy Shockproof in the transfercase. Read my link to TRE's web site above for how to fill it.

Redline MT-90 in the transmission

Redline 75/90 in the rear diff.

No need to order it from the internets. Local EVO shops stock it!


Mike W

lakerraider
12-25-2009, 12:05 AM
is backing the car onto ramps too much of a negative angle to properly drain and fill the rear diff?

HMatt
12-25-2009, 08:37 AM
Eh... Drain shouldn't matter. It could matter for the fill.

Just unscrew the fill plug first and see if any fluid comes out. If not, then don't worry about it because that would mean that you may actually be putting in MORE fluid than you are draining out.

If some comes out and its a dribble, don't worry about it, you are good. If it comes pouring out, then yeah.... you might want to try to flatten it out a bit.... like a second set of ramps on the front or a jack under the front.

evobros
12-25-2009, 09:30 AM
subscribed

dustin06MR
02-27-2010, 02:00 PM
very ACCURATE guide, but let me add after just completing this its a big pain in the butt if all you have is a hand pump and jacks and jackstands in your garage. Combine that with the front plastic splash guard needing at least partially removed and youll be cussing up a storm like I did. All in all i used redline fluid as recommended and its silky smooth now.

bzzbee2
03-18-2012, 03:20 PM
No no no. THey DO NOT all use the same fluid. This is no rookie stuff. You put the wrong fluid in the wrong hole or fill it up improperly and you are looking at $2k to $3k of dead stuff.

Redline Heavy Shockproof in the transfercase. Read my link to TRE's web site above for how to fill it.

Redline MT-90 in the transmission

Redline 75/90 in the rear diff.

No need to order it from the internets. Local EVO shops stock it!


Mike W



Just bringing this one back from the dead...

Last night i started to do the driveline fluid change... it was late, i was a 6-pack deep, and i had bad lighting. Anyway... I grabbed the 3 bottles of MT-90 and filled up the transmission then went to bed. I went down this morning to change the t-case and rear diff. That's when i realized, i pumped in 2 bottles of MT-90 and 1 bottle of 75/90 into the transmission. I have not driven it yet. Will the 75/90 screw things up? or am i ok for a few days until i can get some more MT-90...

HMatt
03-18-2012, 08:30 PM
^You should be fine... But don't get MT-90. Redline came out with MT-85 a while back. Use that. It's kinda in between the MT-90 and MTL so it's closer to OEM spec and I find that it shifts much better.

bzzbee2
03-19-2012, 08:23 AM
Thanks. MT85 is on my shopping list.

dy4anevo
04-18-2012, 12:15 PM
thanx for the concrete info ive been waitin for lol...great write up