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View Full Version : New EVO, squeaky brakes



Skiracer
07-17-2004, 07:11 PM
I got 700 miles on my EVO and they have been squeaking obnoxiously loud when i come to a stop at a stop sign or light. Is this normal?

nurb2
07-17-2004, 08:25 PM
Yes, it's normal.

-nurb2-

Skiracer
07-17-2004, 08:28 PM
Is the squeak going to dissapear after a while ?

Macky
07-17-2004, 08:33 PM
no. thats the price we pay for super brakes 8)

EVO_RPM
07-17-2004, 08:36 PM
Is the squeak going to dissapear after a while ?

Mine use to squeak but after one track day with the EOC of hard breaking it was gone.

- Rich

j_nizzle
07-17-2004, 10:01 PM
yeah mine squeaked like crazy too. stick with hard braking and its all good.

nurb2
07-17-2004, 10:30 PM
Mine were quiet at first, then they started squealing really loud for awhile, but lately they have quieted down considerably. I have 8000 on them, so maybe they do quiet down after awhile.

-nurb2-

Tarmac02
07-18-2004, 01:11 AM
mine have quieted down... only occasionally now when I've been really easy on them... a few hard stops fixes it....

leaveit2bevo
07-18-2004, 01:40 AM
HAHAHHAHAA stock pads sqeaking? lol you havent heard my pads yet it would drown out a enzo reving

dpardo
07-18-2004, 07:14 AM
I have never had any type of loud squeaking from my brakes.

Did you break them in correctly?

It seems like quite a few people have the loud squeaking problem but I don't know if they broke them in differently.

dpardo
07-18-2004, 07:34 AM
Here is a response to a squealing question from a Stoptech sales manager on Evom:

Quote:
If you have 900+ miles on it, wouldnt worry about them being broke in ....but the squealing......I don't know???? maybe its "normal" on some.....


This is not a safe assumption. Pads need to be broken in using a specific procedure. The idea is to transfer an even deposit of pad material to the rotor. When you hit your brakes, the stopping mechanism is not designed to be pad on rotor. The mechanism is pad on pad material deposited on rotor. Make sense? To properly bed your pads, you need to do about 10 consecutive stops from 60. Find a nice deserted stretch of highway late at night. Take the car up to 60...jump on the brakes and declerate the car down to about 5mph...DO NOT STOP COMPLETELY...take the car up to 60 again immediately, and slow to 5mph again...by the 4th or 5th time, you're going to start smelling some pad as it heats up. By the 6th or 7th stop, you'll probably start seeing some smoke...this is normal. Keep going until the 10th stop, or discontinue the procedure if the brakes start to significantly fade. If the start to fade significantly, this is normal...just cruise for a bit to cool things down, and don't come to a full stop. Then you need to keep driving for 5-10 minutes or so without coming to a full stop...you're just cooling everything down. If done properly, this should clear up your squeaking problem, and put a nice even deposit on the rotor. When you look at the rotor in daylight, it should have a nice uniform blueish tint all over the surface where the pad makes contact with the rotor. My bet is that your squeaks will be gone, and your car will finally be stopping at its full potential. This break-in procedure should be done EVERY time you change your pads...that means if you go to the track and swap in race pads, you need to bed in the rotors with the new material...and when you put your street pads again, you need to rebed them. Get it? The reason that I'm harping on the 'don't stop completely' thing is that you could put a nasty pad deposit on the rotors if you let them sit on the rotors in one spot while they're hot (the pads and rotors will be toasty). The pad material fuses to that one spot...then what happens is every time you hit your brakes you get a thumpety thump thump vibration when the rotor spins past that deposit point and it makes contact with your pad. Then you'll be saying HELP!

As for the squeal, high performance pads do have a much greater tendency to squeal. That's just the price you pay sometimes for performance. No matter what pad you use, you will ALWAYS have some sort of tradeoff. A street pad is generally less noisy and dusty, but it can't handle extreme heat and will fade when pushed. On the other hand, a race pad doesn't work well cold, and will chew the ___ out of your rotors. You can buy a 'granny' pad that has no dust and doesn't let out a peep, but then it won't bite as hard, and you'll be complaining that the car doesn't stop fast enough! Brake pads are all about tradeoffs...there is no magic formula that works under all conditions.

ps I'm the sales manager for StopTech in North America. I just want to be clear that I have some experience with this procedure. Many of our customers are unaware that this procedure is even necessary. They are also usually shocked that causing the pads to stink and smoke is normal as well...but that's what you need to do to get them to work properly. I figured it would be fine to post educational stuff as long as I'm not trying to sell anything.

Good luck, and happy braking.
__________________
J Ritt
1998 Integra Type R (sold)
2003 350Z

Skiracer
07-18-2004, 10:48 AM
Wow, thanks for the tip. I found the same information on your website, but i guess you couldn't paste the info. on it because you want to avoid advertising your company. Well since i'm not related to your company, i'll do it for you:
http://www.stoptech.com/whitepapers/warped_rotors_myth.htm

I'll try it out and see how it works. BTW, do i risk "glazing" my rotors doing the procedure you described?

donatevo
07-20-2004, 07:05 AM
Is the squeak going to dissapear after a while ? Yup! My brakes squeal for a while then it went away as the pads got broken in with the rotor.

turtlexevo
10-19-2004, 07:44 PM
wuts funny is , mines dont squeak but evyertime i wash my car, and i start to see the rotors turn brown from the water and air, i hear the squeek, but after awhile of driving its gone

mybada
10-26-2004, 04:19 PM
wow...! I have exactly same problem with my mr w/ 400miles on. I called stealership today for appointment, but then the service guy told me to give it a little more time to break-in as it seems to disappear later on most of the case.... :?

toku-one
10-26-2004, 04:24 PM
i just changed to my r1 concepts (similar to rotora slotted) and endless ss-s pads

NO SQUEAK! and they bite like crazy.

but stock rotor and ferodo 2500s and i had squeaky all day long

(also, i have no front shims :( )

leaveit2bevo
10-26-2004, 08:42 PM
I told you that set up kicked ass and no squeal, and I dont have shims either.

6one9evo
11-12-2004, 01:16 PM
why is it that mine only squeal when stoping after reversing?

twan
11-15-2004, 07:19 AM
Mine make some noise (MR) if I get on them lightly........

drift_master
01-20-2005, 11:05 PM
thanx man solves my problem coz nothing more embarrassing than pulling up to a traffic light with that squeling sound






Here is a response to a squealing question from a Stoptech sales manager on Evom:

Quote:
If you have 900+ miles on it, wouldnt worry about them being broke in ....but the squealing......I don't know???? maybe its "normal" on some.....


This is not a safe assumption. Pads need to be broken in using a specific procedure. The idea is to transfer an even deposit of pad material to the rotor. When you hit your brakes, the stopping mechanism is not designed to be pad on rotor. The mechanism is pad on pad material deposited on rotor. Make sense? To properly bed your pads, you need to do about 10 consecutive stops from 60. Find a nice deserted stretch of highway late at night. Take the car up to 60...jump on the brakes and declerate the car down to about 5mph...DO NOT STOP COMPLETELY...take the car up to 60 again immediately, and slow to 5mph again...by the 4th or 5th time, you're going to start smelling some pad as it heats up. By the 6th or 7th stop, you'll probably start seeing some smoke...this is normal. Keep going until the 10th stop, or discontinue the procedure if the brakes start to significantly fade. If the start to fade significantly, this is normal...just cruise for a bit to cool things down, and don't come to a full stop. Then you need to keep driving for 5-10 minutes or so without coming to a full stop...you're just cooling everything down. If done properly, this should clear up your squeaking problem, and put a nice even deposit on the rotor. When you look at the rotor in daylight, it should have a nice uniform blueish tint all over the surface where the pad makes contact with the rotor. My bet is that your squeaks will be gone, and your car will finally be stopping at its full potential. This break-in procedure should be done EVERY time you change your pads...that means if you go to the track and swap in race pads, you need to bed in the rotors with the new material...and when you put your street pads again, you need to rebed them. Get it? The reason that I'm harping on the 'don't stop completely' thing is that you could put a nasty pad deposit on the rotors if you let them sit on the rotors in one spot while they're hot (the pads and rotors will be toasty). The pad material fuses to that one spot...then what happens is every time you hit your brakes you get a thumpety thump thump vibration when the rotor spins past that deposit point and it makes contact with your pad. Then you'll be saying HELP!

As for the squeal, high performance pads do have a much greater tendency to squeal. That's just the price you pay sometimes for performance. No matter what pad you use, you will ALWAYS have some sort of tradeoff. A street pad is generally less noisy and dusty, but it can't handle extreme heat and will fade when pushed. On the other hand, a race pad doesn't work well cold, and will chew the ___ out of your rotors. You can buy a 'granny' pad that has no dust and doesn't let out a peep, but then it won't bite as hard, and you'll be complaining that the car doesn't stop fast enough! Brake pads are all about tradeoffs...there is no magic formula that works under all conditions.

ps I'm the sales manager for StopTech in North America. I just want to be clear that I have some experience with this procedure. Many of our customers are unaware that this procedure is even necessary. They are also usually shocked that causing the pads to stink and smoke is normal as well...but that's what you need to do to get them to work properly. I figured it would be fine to post educational stuff as long as I'm not trying to sell anything.

Good luck, and happy braking.
__________________
J Ritt
1998 Integra Type R (sold)
2003 350Z

BOVBILLY
01-20-2005, 11:15 PM
wow...! I have exactly same problem with my mr w/ 400miles on. I called STEALERSHIP today for appointment, but then the service guy told me to give it a little more time to break-in as it seems to disappear later on most of the case.... :?


WHATS A "STEALERSHIP"????

EvolveMR
01-29-2005, 03:57 AM
Mine make some noise (MR) if I get on them lightly........

same thing on my MR with 2k miles. I was thinking the pads were just glazed and maybe some hard braking would crack the glaze. so far that theory worked. havent heard a squeak in over 2 weeks.

CT9A RS
01-30-2005, 11:42 PM
From what ive experienced and seen the factory brake setup squeals. A lot of Evo owners have this squeal its quite common. As far as i know theres nothing wrong with the squeal its just annoying.

Timujin
01-31-2005, 12:44 PM
wow...! I have exactly same problem with my mr w/ 400miles on. I called STEALERSHIP today for appointment, but then the service guy told me to give it a little more time to break-in as it seems to disappear later on most of the case.... :?


WHATS A "STEALERSHIP"????

That is where most of us purchased our cars new, or used in my case. Well typically when you go back to get your car serviced, they steal money right from your wallet. At least they try to more often than not.

Boosted
01-31-2005, 04:39 PM
im scared to up my rotors and pads so soon I dont need to not be used to all the extra bite and lock up my brakes

CT9A RS
02-01-2005, 04:12 AM
im scared to up my rotors and pads so soon I dont need to not be used to all the extra bite and lock up my brakes

Yeah have u locked up ur brakes before. I wouldnt up them until ur pretty quick with braking ur lock and regaining traction n then braking again.

I had 4 piston Z32 Brakes on my 2600lb S13. Those brakes had bite. I would lock up netime i jammed on the brakes. Thats why a lot of people say those brakes are too much for the 240 and recommend the q45 brakes.

But yeah im probably not gonna up the brakes for awhile the factory calipers are dope. I may at one point get some two piece floating rotors and some more aggressive pads.

mybada
02-10-2005, 03:43 PM
If you actually listen to the noise carefully it's not SQUEAK it's more like GLAZING... I don't know why but one thing for sure... this will NOT go away!! like interior noise goes away after some mile....
but it won't make any noise on rainy days...