trannb
10-24-2004, 09:22 PM
Here was my setup on Friday:
Hawk Blue Brake Pads in the front, properly bedded
Dust Shield's Removed
No ABS
No Shims (on the front)
RRE Stainless Steel Braided Brake Lines
ATE Super Blue brake fluid
Toyo Proxes RA-1
For the purpose of the brakes, the car is otherwise stock including the rotors and rear pads.
The Hawk Blues had a really big initial bite, even when cold. Better grab than the stock brake pads when cold, infinitely better when hot.
When I first installed the stainless steel brake lines, pedal modulation became excellent. I'd never been able to modulate the brakes so fast in my life...That's to say that the split second that I felt the brakes lock, I lifted slightly and reapplied pressure. With the Hawk Blues, it's nearly instananeous.
Zero fade after any speed after any length of time on the configuration that we ran on Friday.
Total pad thickness averaged .604" (including backing plate). The pads experienced an average .005" wear (measured with a Micrometer as opposed to the crappy digital calipers that I had at the track). In my haste on Thursday night, I forgot to measure the rotors. I will do this next time.
Cost: $279 + tax from Porterfield Brakes. The front pads are a custom grind. This took them 3 hours to get me pads. Many of our SoCalEvo.net vendors can get these pads on special order. While it may take longer, it will most likely be cheaper.
Brownbo effect: I have not brownbo'd with any pad that has been in my car so far. I think this is due to the fact that I don't have the dust shields on. I know that some people have experienced a no-brownbo-effect with the brake ducting kit, but for me removing the shields alone seems to have sufficed. Yes, I did brake hard enough and often enough.
For track use, if I were to buy pads again, I would buy Hawk Blues in a heartbeat.
Do not use these on the street. They sound worse than PF97s.
Hawk Blue Brake Pads in the front, properly bedded
Dust Shield's Removed
No ABS
No Shims (on the front)
RRE Stainless Steel Braided Brake Lines
ATE Super Blue brake fluid
Toyo Proxes RA-1
For the purpose of the brakes, the car is otherwise stock including the rotors and rear pads.
The Hawk Blues had a really big initial bite, even when cold. Better grab than the stock brake pads when cold, infinitely better when hot.
When I first installed the stainless steel brake lines, pedal modulation became excellent. I'd never been able to modulate the brakes so fast in my life...That's to say that the split second that I felt the brakes lock, I lifted slightly and reapplied pressure. With the Hawk Blues, it's nearly instananeous.
Zero fade after any speed after any length of time on the configuration that we ran on Friday.
Total pad thickness averaged .604" (including backing plate). The pads experienced an average .005" wear (measured with a Micrometer as opposed to the crappy digital calipers that I had at the track). In my haste on Thursday night, I forgot to measure the rotors. I will do this next time.
Cost: $279 + tax from Porterfield Brakes. The front pads are a custom grind. This took them 3 hours to get me pads. Many of our SoCalEvo.net vendors can get these pads on special order. While it may take longer, it will most likely be cheaper.
Brownbo effect: I have not brownbo'd with any pad that has been in my car so far. I think this is due to the fact that I don't have the dust shields on. I know that some people have experienced a no-brownbo-effect with the brake ducting kit, but for me removing the shields alone seems to have sufficed. Yes, I did brake hard enough and often enough.
For track use, if I were to buy pads again, I would buy Hawk Blues in a heartbeat.
Do not use these on the street. They sound worse than PF97s.