just installed bigger intercooler and now i get BOV flutter

[kipper215]

hey guys i just install a alrger intercooler and now i get BOV flutter or could it be turbo surge. i tighten the BOV greddy type-s and that did not fix the problem. i loosen the spring a lot and it got i little better. the car did stall on my. do i need to loosen the spring even more of what am i doing wrong. :?

[Skiracer]

Did you try the single spring mod?

[kipper215]

i don't know if it has the spring mod. i bought the BOV from road race with the evo flange already on it.

[kipper215]

bump for help

[kipper215]

are you suppose to adjust the BOV when you change the IC

[Skiracer]

I'm not sure if the bigger IC has anything to do with the BOV, but i'm not the most versed expert in that area. The RRE type-S comes with 2 springs. I have the same BOV from RRE and recently did the single spring mod and i no longer have any fluttering whatsoever.

[leaveit2bevo]

If anything the bigger IC probally dropped boost, did you reinstall the bov wrong?

[DocMortal]

I thought I was the only one...

Greddy type S from RRE also and was working great until I did my Buschur FMIC...

Also remember that the RRE type s has the special flange which has a port through it..It helps it stay closed under boost.

Started getting fluttering and stalling issues....AFTER fmic.

I tried stock and worked great but didnt trust it holding boost...

I was so close to buying the MR bov... but before I do Im going to try the sigle spring,might save me 110 bucks...

Have no idea why the fmic would cause the bov to act different but it did on mine?

[Boosted]

If anything the bigger IC probally dropped boost, did you reinstall the bov wrong?

exactly

[500whp]

take off the 6 screws on top of the bov, the the type-s will come apart! There are 2 springs in there, try using the big spring only, then play w/ the adjustments!

[kipper215]

i want to thank you guys for all the responses. i am glad that i am not the only one with the probem. i love discovery. i will try to loosen the BOV more and see what happens. if that doesn't work i will try removing one of the springs.

[Skiracer]

I have my BOV set at about only 2-3 turns from where the screw begins to tighten with the single spring mod.

[trinydex]

can you ask rre and let us know what they tell you or recommend?

[kipper215]

i loosen the BOV spring three more turns and still the same problem. i am waiting on a call from XS engineering. i will contact RRE after 12pm. this situation is strange. i never touch the BOV during the install. :?

[Skiracer]

Try loosening the BOV all the way. Once its loosened all the way, tighten it until you begin to feel spring tension. Once you feel the tension, turn it 2-3 times. Drive around and tighten more if necessary.

[kipper215]

I'll give that a shot....thanx

[hksevo8]

could it be that by adding a larger intercooler and not being tuned for the larger intercooler that this is happening. Maybe you need to have the ecu set up for the increased air........?

[leaveit2bevo]

no the ecu wouldnt affect the bov fluttering.

[hksevo8]

no the ecu wouldnt affect the bov fluttering.

i guess your could be correct, but there is more air flow.

[leaveit2bevo]

the ecu dosent control the bov though, usually the bov flutter is caused because the spring is to tight and the boost leaving isnt enough to keep it open fully, so more boost leaving would make it better not worse.

[kipper215]

i called xs and talked to road race and their answer was the same the BOV is too tight. then i explained to them how i adjusted the BOV and then the answer was :? i think there may be a leak somewhere. i will take the bumper off again :cry: a lot of work. and check the connections again. i will let you know what happens.

[Skiracer]

Did you do the single spring mod yet? You should try that before taking off the bumper to see what happens.

[leaveit2bevo]

I dont think thats his problem, a boost leak would make the bov flutter because it isnt releasing as much air as it was before.

[kipper215]

a boost leak would make the bov flutter because it isnt releasing as much air as it was before.


that's what i am thinking. :idea:

[thrlskr]

Since I don't own an EVO I haven't looked to see how close to the throttle body the (closer is better BTW). Anyway, I have a better solution to greddy type-s flutter and response issuses than the RRE single spring MOD. Please post a picture of the BOV's relationship to the throttle body. Unforunately, I think the Intercooler is between the BOV and the throttle body. The increased throttle volume is increasing the time it takes the pressure wave to move from the throttle plate to the BOV. Longer time=less responsive=turkey gobble. Hopefullly this isn't the case.

In the mean time I will look for my type-s write up I did a couple of years ago.

Nick

[thrlskr]

When I first started using the type-s if I had it tight enough to not to leak at idle then it would turkey gobble when I shifted. If it was loose enough not to turkey gobble when the throttle plate closed, it would leak at idle.

Then I used only the large spring it helped, but I felt that I was getting some boost leakage and my little turbo was working harder than it should to maintain my target boost.

My solution? Push-Pull, uses BOTH nipples!

You need to source the vacuum source for the larger nipple after the throttle plate and the source for the smaller nipple before throttle plate (I had to drill and tap for a brass fitting). Simple huh? In this setup, boost actually holds the valve closed, and vacuum opens the valve (with boost pressure helping force the piston open) this is why the nipples are different sizes! This works best if the BOV is already near the throttle body. This mod change my Type-S from a leaky at idle, slow to react, turkey gobbling BOV to something I am now very happy with. I can take pictures this weekend if this isn't clear.

Now the BOV reacts MUCH faster and you can increase the tension on the BOV rather than loosening it. You increase the tension using an allen wrench after loosing the nut. I've met people who thought the nut was the adjustment, it's not.

I hope this is helful and feasible with the EVO's plumbing,

Nick

[kipper215]

well after two hours of work i was able to fix the problem. i took the front bumper off again and replaced one of the couplers. then i notice that the MAF was turned a little bit and it was pinching one of the hoses on the BOV causing the flutter after fixing every thing the car runs great. i do notice a difference in power. i will know where i stand tonight after fuel pump and safc intall with dyno tuning. thanx for the help one again. :D

[leaveit2bevo]

When I first started using the type-s if I had it tight enough to not to leak at idle then it would turkey gobble when I shifted. If it was loose enough not to turkey gobble when the throttle plate closed, it would leak at idle.

Then I used only the large spring it helped, but I felt that I was getting some boost leakage and my little turbo was working harder than it should to maintain my target boost.

My solution? Push-Pull, uses BOTH nipples!

You need to source the vacuum source for the larger nipple after the throttle plate and the source for the smaller nipple before throttle plate (I had to drill and tap for a brass fitting). Simple huh? In this setup, boost actually holds the valve closed, and vacuum opens the valve (with boost pressure helping force the piston open) this is why the nipples are different sizes! This works best if the BOV is already near the throttle body. This mod change my Type-S from a leaky at idle, slow to react, turkey gobbling BOV to something I am now very happy with. I can take pictures this weekend if this isn't clear.

Now the BOV reacts MUCH faster and you can increase the tension on the BOV rather than loosening it. You increase the tension using an allen wrench after loosing the nut. I've met people who thought the nut was the adjustment, it's not.

I hope this is helful and feasible with the EVO's plumbing,

Nick

this is what RRE does, they dont do the single spring mod they hook up the other nipple to the intake manifold and another to the intake so the bov wont surge at low boost or do the turkey gobble.

[leaveit2bevo]

well after two hours of work i was able to fix the problem. i took the front bumper off again and replaced one of the couplers. then i notice that the MAF was turned a little bit and it was pinching one of the hoses on the BOV causing the flutter after fixing every thing the car runs great. i do notice a difference in power. i will know where i stand tonight after fuel pump and safc intall with dyno tuning. thanx for the help one again. :D

glad you found the problem

[kipper215]

this is what RRE does, they dont do the single spring mod they hook up the other nipple to the intake manifold and another to the intake so the bov wont surge at low boost or do the turkey gobble.[/quote]

that's how i got it set up.

[GokuSSJ4]

glad that you were able to solve the problem :D
Thats one of the reasons why i chose to go with the 1g BOV (no issues what so ever) and it will hold boost pass 26psi :cool:

[trinydex]

When I first started using the type-s if I had it tight enough to not to leak at idle then it would turkey gobble when I shifted. If it was loose enough not to turkey gobble when the throttle plate closed, it would leak at idle.

Then I used only the large spring it helped, but I felt that I was getting some boost leakage and my little turbo was working harder than it should to maintain my target boost.

My solution? Push-Pull, uses BOTH nipples!

You need to source the vacuum source for the larger nipple after the throttle plate and the source for the smaller nipple before throttle plate (I had to drill and tap for a brass fitting). Simple huh? In this setup, boost actually holds the valve closed, and vacuum opens the valve (with boost pressure helping force the piston open) this is why the nipples are different sizes! This works best if the BOV is already near the throttle body. This mod change my Type-S from a leaky at idle, slow to react, turkey gobbling BOV to something I am now very happy with. I can take pictures this weekend if this isn't clear.

Now the BOV reacts MUCH faster and you can increase the tension on the BOV rather than loosening it. You increase the tension using an allen wrench after loosing the nut. I've met people who thought the nut was the adjustment, it's not.

I hope this is helful and feasible with the EVO's plumbing,

Nick

uhm... that is the rre solution... they use both pnumatic assist nipples... the single spring mod is something that silver surfer made up.

[leaveit2bevo]

lol is there an echo in here daveee?

[thrlskr]

When I first started using the type-s if I had it tight enough to not to leak at idle then it would turkey gobble when I shifted. If it was loose enough not to turkey gobble when the throttle plate closed, it would leak at idle.

Then I used only the large spring it helped, but I felt that I was getting some boost leakage and my little turbo was working harder than it should to maintain my target boost.

My solution? Push-Pull, uses BOTH nipples!

You need to source the vacuum source for the larger nipple after the throttle plate and the source for the smaller nipple before throttle plate (I had to drill and tap for a brass fitting). Simple huh? In this setup, boost actually holds the valve closed, and vacuum opens the valve (with boost pressure helping force the piston open) this is why the nipples are different sizes! This works best if the BOV is already near the throttle body. This mod change my Type-S from a leaky at idle, slow to react, turkey gobbling BOV to something I am now very happy with. I can take pictures this weekend if this isn't clear.

Now the BOV reacts MUCH faster and you can increase the tension on the BOV rather than loosening it. You increase the tension using an allen wrench after loosing the nut. I've met people who thought the nut was the adjustment, it's not.

I hope this is helful and feasible with the EVO's plumbing,

Nick

uhm... that is the rre solution... they use both pnumatic assist nipples... the single spring mod is something that silver surfer made up.

I read the first posts too quickly. Now that I reread them you are correct; I thought someone mentioned RRE and the single screen mod together. My bad.

Nick

[trinydex]

lol is there an echo in here daveee?

oops