GokuSSJ4
01-16-2006, 12:43 AM
thanks to:* http://www.evomoto.com/tech_info.php?tech_id=18
pics can be found in the link provided as well...
Evo 8 Camshaft Install*
It takes air (and fuel) to make power and one of the best ways to get more air through the engine is to add performance camshafts with higher lifts, longer durations, and more overlap. These will open the valve higher and/or for a longer periods, thus allowing air to flow more freely. A decent set of cams could easily add 20-30 HP to your Evo.
Although, fairly in-depth, this install write up is intended as a general process, not a step-by-step Installing Evo Cams for Dummies (though it's close :). Installing camshafts is not for the newbie unless you are absolutely sure of your ability to pull this off. Failure to install cams properly or correctly check and set timing can totally destroy your engine.
We will be using the Mitsubishi "Timing Belt Tool" (http://www.evomoto.com/product_info.php?products_id=511) for this install. If you do not own this item, you will have the additional labor of removing and replacing the timing belt, which adds greatly to the total install time as you might imagine. The removal and replacement of the timing belt will be shown in a separate section at a later date. If you do not have the timing belt tool, you should really consider getting one (click here to purchase evo timing belt tool). (http://www.evomoto.com/product_info.php?products_id=511) This tool will save you hours of work whenever you need to remove the cams or the head.
1. Start off by raising the front of the car and supporting it on jack stands or ramps.
2.* * * *Remove the bolts holding the throttle cable, main wire harness, and spark plug cover to the valve cover. Remove the vacuum hose from the metal tube at the back/right of the valve cover.
NOTE:The order of these initial removal steps is almost a moot point...everything attached to the valve cover must be removed so the valve cover can be pulled off. The individual steps are only included here for the sake of completeness.
3.
TECH TIP: A good way to not loose any of the numerous bolts that hold things to the valve cover and to make sure the correct bolt goes back where it came from, is to replace the bolt in the valve cover after you remove whatever it was holding.
4.
Remove the four 10mm bolts on cam gear cover. Note that the lower bolts are longer than the top.
TECH TIP: the easiest way to reach the rear/lower bolt is with an open-end wrench from the back.
5.
You may need to remove the 12mm bolt holding the power steering hose to the top of the motor mount to get the cam gear cover out.
6.
Disconnect all sensor harnesses that run over the top of the valve cover (cam angle sensor, O2 sensor, coil pack harness, and EGT harness if installed). To remove the cam angle sensor harness from its bracket, simply pull it straight up off of its base (left inset). Remove the two 10mm bolts holding the O2 sensor harness to the top of the valve cover (right inset).
7.
Remove the harness to the coil pack on cylinder #4 and then remove the coil packs (held by three 10mm bolts each) and the spark plug wires.
8.
We now need to remove the hard line that connects the intake reference to the BOV. First disconnect the rubber vacuum hose at the BOV. Remove the 10mm bolt on top of the cam angle sensor (remove the vacuum hose to the valve cover to reach it). To remove the 10mm bolt under the wire harness, remove the harness from its bracket by pulling the tab forward and lifting straight up, as shown in the inset.
9.
If everything went according to plan, you should now have a barren valve cover!
10.
Disconnect the cam angle sensor and the 10mm bolt holding the ground to the cam angle sensor housing.
NOTE: The entire cam angle sensor housing will be removed with the exhaust cam.
11.
Under the passenger side wheel well, you will want to remove the inner splashguard to access the crank pulley and accessory belt tensioner. You can simply remove the round plug to access the crank sprocket bolt to simply rotate the crank, but it's much easier to read the timing chart if you move the accessory belt from the water pump pulley, so we need access to the tensioner. If you are doing the install without the timing belt tool, you will need to remove this anyway.
12.
To make the crank timing mark and timing chart easier to read, and at a better angle, loosen the accessory belt tensioner and pull the belt off of the water pump pulley (directly above the crank pulley).
To the left of the crank pulley is the accessory belt tensioner. Before doing anything, find an allen key, drill bit or other similar object that closely fits the hole size, as shown.
13.
Grab that 1/2" drive or breaker bar that you will use to rotate the crank and insert it into the square opening in the tensioner as shown. Pull counter-clockwise to release the tension on the belt.
14.
When the two holes align, push the allen key, drill bit, etc. through to hold the tensioner open. Once the tension is released from the belt, push the serpentine belt off of the water pump pulley towards the fender (ie. away from the timing belt cover), then get up top and look for your timing chart and crank timing mark.
15.
Ah, much easier to read! Yes, that's right, when the cams are set on time, our crank mark is a degree or so BTDC, not exactly on "T". Likewise, if the crank is set at TDC, the cams are little advanced. Don't freak, it's not uncommon to see this on 4G63s. What causes this? We don't have a definitive answer for you, but when dealing with rubber timing belts and hydraulic tensioners, there is plenty of room for "play". There is also clearance between the crank pulley key and keyway, maybe the "eyeballed" TDC alignment isn't dead on, etc. So was our eyeballed TDC off? No, because we didn't eyeball it. We used a degree wheel and positive piston stop to find true TDC. The crank mark was 1°-2° BTDC, the intake cam looked dead on its mark and the exhaust cam actually looked a little (very little) advanced on its mark.
Suffice it to say that however much your marks are "off" when stock, if at all, is simply the way it is. Why? Experience with 4G63s in DSMs tells us this, but something you will find easier to swallow is that unless you've already messed with the timing belt, it's definitely, without a doubt, 100%, dead-on time from the factory, regardless if a pulley's tic doesn't perfectly line up with its TDC mark. Note that we keep saying when "timing marks when stock". After you do anything with the timing belt, there is always the possibility that you messed something up. We've never been concerned about 1°-3°, but if timing is ever more than 4°-5° off after you mess with it, it's much more likely that you have a pulley one tooth off.
In any event, line up TDC as close as you can. If anything is "off" just make note of it...that will be your target when you are done installing the cams.
16.
Now grab that 1/2" drive again and with a 3" extension, plug it directly in the middle the crank sprocket bolt to rotate the crank.
TECH TIP: The longer the ratchet/breaker bar you use, the easier it will be to rotate the crank.
TECH TIP: Though you will not "need" to remove the spark plugs for this install, if your engine position is far away from being at TDC, loosening (or completely removing) the plugs will let out any compression that builds up, making it easier to rotate the crank.
Since the crank timing will "vary" (usually ends up a few degrees BTDC), line up TDC on the cam pulleys. Rotate the engine clockwise so that both cam pulleys' timing marks line up with the timing marks on the valve cover. When they are set, make a note of your crank pulley timing mark.
TECH TIP: If you don't have a 2nd set of eyeballs at the top of the engine to watch the cam or crank timing marks, you are close to TDC when the crank pulley key (dowel pin) is just about perfectly pointing to the front of the car. Note that the dowel pins on the cam gears will be a few degrees before and after straight up on the intake and exhaust cams respectively when at TDC. When the cam pulleys are lined up, the crank pulley will most likely be a few degrees BTDC.
17.
Alright, now that we've confirmed the crank and cam pulleys are at TDC, we can remove the valve cover so we have access to the cam gears...
Remove the twelve 10mm bolts holding the valve cover down. Carefully pull the cover off. The gasket maybe to stuck to the head with sealant in the corners of the outside cam bearing caps and may be pulled out of the cover. There are four individual gaskets around each spark plug holes, make sure not to lose any.
It is a good idea to stick the valve cover in a clean plastic trash bag and set it in a safe place...don't leave it open and laying on the floor and never set it down on the gasket side to keep it clean.
NOTE: once the valve cover is off, be extremely careful about not dropping or getting anything inside the head. Keep the shop/garage as clean as possible while the cover is off. Even the smallest piece of trash can clog some oil jets and/or score journals/bearings. If you have to stop in the middle of the install for any reason, lay the valve cover or a clean plastic trash bag over the head to keep junk out.
18.
We want to break the cam gear bolts loose prior to inserting the tensioner tool. This is done in case there is any movement of the timing belt that may throw the timing off of TDC while trying to break the bolts. Hold the cams at the nut section (outlined) with a 26mm or 1-1/16" open end wrench. If you don't have an open end wrench that large on tap, an adjustable wrench (gulp) will work too. Most aftermarket cams will either have the same 26mm or a 25mm (1") nut on them.
If you don't have an impact gun, getting the cam gear bolts off is all about leverage. Just make sure not to punch a nice big dent in your aluminum hood when those suckers finally break loose. Do not remove the cam gear bolts, just break them loose.
And, yes, the stock cams are definitely hollow as can be seen by the hole in the middle of the nut.
19.
Re-check your timing marks to see that they are still on TDC. Simply lay the valve cover back on the head to verify the cam timing and check that the crank mark is in the same time as you noted in Step 15. If the timing is off, move it back to TDC.
When you are sure everything is at TDC, grab some tie straps and strap the timing belt to the cam gears.
20.
Get your timing belt tool (inset) and insert it into the access hole at the front of the timing cover. Thread it in by hand and then slowly tighten it down with a socket. Waiting a few seconds between turns will allow the auto tensioner to settle and will make turning it easier.
pics can be found in the link provided as well...
Evo 8 Camshaft Install*
It takes air (and fuel) to make power and one of the best ways to get more air through the engine is to add performance camshafts with higher lifts, longer durations, and more overlap. These will open the valve higher and/or for a longer periods, thus allowing air to flow more freely. A decent set of cams could easily add 20-30 HP to your Evo.
Although, fairly in-depth, this install write up is intended as a general process, not a step-by-step Installing Evo Cams for Dummies (though it's close :). Installing camshafts is not for the newbie unless you are absolutely sure of your ability to pull this off. Failure to install cams properly or correctly check and set timing can totally destroy your engine.
We will be using the Mitsubishi "Timing Belt Tool" (http://www.evomoto.com/product_info.php?products_id=511) for this install. If you do not own this item, you will have the additional labor of removing and replacing the timing belt, which adds greatly to the total install time as you might imagine. The removal and replacement of the timing belt will be shown in a separate section at a later date. If you do not have the timing belt tool, you should really consider getting one (click here to purchase evo timing belt tool). (http://www.evomoto.com/product_info.php?products_id=511) This tool will save you hours of work whenever you need to remove the cams or the head.
1. Start off by raising the front of the car and supporting it on jack stands or ramps.
2.* * * *Remove the bolts holding the throttle cable, main wire harness, and spark plug cover to the valve cover. Remove the vacuum hose from the metal tube at the back/right of the valve cover.
NOTE:The order of these initial removal steps is almost a moot point...everything attached to the valve cover must be removed so the valve cover can be pulled off. The individual steps are only included here for the sake of completeness.
3.
TECH TIP: A good way to not loose any of the numerous bolts that hold things to the valve cover and to make sure the correct bolt goes back where it came from, is to replace the bolt in the valve cover after you remove whatever it was holding.
4.
Remove the four 10mm bolts on cam gear cover. Note that the lower bolts are longer than the top.
TECH TIP: the easiest way to reach the rear/lower bolt is with an open-end wrench from the back.
5.
You may need to remove the 12mm bolt holding the power steering hose to the top of the motor mount to get the cam gear cover out.
6.
Disconnect all sensor harnesses that run over the top of the valve cover (cam angle sensor, O2 sensor, coil pack harness, and EGT harness if installed). To remove the cam angle sensor harness from its bracket, simply pull it straight up off of its base (left inset). Remove the two 10mm bolts holding the O2 sensor harness to the top of the valve cover (right inset).
7.
Remove the harness to the coil pack on cylinder #4 and then remove the coil packs (held by three 10mm bolts each) and the spark plug wires.
8.
We now need to remove the hard line that connects the intake reference to the BOV. First disconnect the rubber vacuum hose at the BOV. Remove the 10mm bolt on top of the cam angle sensor (remove the vacuum hose to the valve cover to reach it). To remove the 10mm bolt under the wire harness, remove the harness from its bracket by pulling the tab forward and lifting straight up, as shown in the inset.
9.
If everything went according to plan, you should now have a barren valve cover!
10.
Disconnect the cam angle sensor and the 10mm bolt holding the ground to the cam angle sensor housing.
NOTE: The entire cam angle sensor housing will be removed with the exhaust cam.
11.
Under the passenger side wheel well, you will want to remove the inner splashguard to access the crank pulley and accessory belt tensioner. You can simply remove the round plug to access the crank sprocket bolt to simply rotate the crank, but it's much easier to read the timing chart if you move the accessory belt from the water pump pulley, so we need access to the tensioner. If you are doing the install without the timing belt tool, you will need to remove this anyway.
12.
To make the crank timing mark and timing chart easier to read, and at a better angle, loosen the accessory belt tensioner and pull the belt off of the water pump pulley (directly above the crank pulley).
To the left of the crank pulley is the accessory belt tensioner. Before doing anything, find an allen key, drill bit or other similar object that closely fits the hole size, as shown.
13.
Grab that 1/2" drive or breaker bar that you will use to rotate the crank and insert it into the square opening in the tensioner as shown. Pull counter-clockwise to release the tension on the belt.
14.
When the two holes align, push the allen key, drill bit, etc. through to hold the tensioner open. Once the tension is released from the belt, push the serpentine belt off of the water pump pulley towards the fender (ie. away from the timing belt cover), then get up top and look for your timing chart and crank timing mark.
15.
Ah, much easier to read! Yes, that's right, when the cams are set on time, our crank mark is a degree or so BTDC, not exactly on "T". Likewise, if the crank is set at TDC, the cams are little advanced. Don't freak, it's not uncommon to see this on 4G63s. What causes this? We don't have a definitive answer for you, but when dealing with rubber timing belts and hydraulic tensioners, there is plenty of room for "play". There is also clearance between the crank pulley key and keyway, maybe the "eyeballed" TDC alignment isn't dead on, etc. So was our eyeballed TDC off? No, because we didn't eyeball it. We used a degree wheel and positive piston stop to find true TDC. The crank mark was 1°-2° BTDC, the intake cam looked dead on its mark and the exhaust cam actually looked a little (very little) advanced on its mark.
Suffice it to say that however much your marks are "off" when stock, if at all, is simply the way it is. Why? Experience with 4G63s in DSMs tells us this, but something you will find easier to swallow is that unless you've already messed with the timing belt, it's definitely, without a doubt, 100%, dead-on time from the factory, regardless if a pulley's tic doesn't perfectly line up with its TDC mark. Note that we keep saying when "timing marks when stock". After you do anything with the timing belt, there is always the possibility that you messed something up. We've never been concerned about 1°-3°, but if timing is ever more than 4°-5° off after you mess with it, it's much more likely that you have a pulley one tooth off.
In any event, line up TDC as close as you can. If anything is "off" just make note of it...that will be your target when you are done installing the cams.
16.
Now grab that 1/2" drive again and with a 3" extension, plug it directly in the middle the crank sprocket bolt to rotate the crank.
TECH TIP: The longer the ratchet/breaker bar you use, the easier it will be to rotate the crank.
TECH TIP: Though you will not "need" to remove the spark plugs for this install, if your engine position is far away from being at TDC, loosening (or completely removing) the plugs will let out any compression that builds up, making it easier to rotate the crank.
Since the crank timing will "vary" (usually ends up a few degrees BTDC), line up TDC on the cam pulleys. Rotate the engine clockwise so that both cam pulleys' timing marks line up with the timing marks on the valve cover. When they are set, make a note of your crank pulley timing mark.
TECH TIP: If you don't have a 2nd set of eyeballs at the top of the engine to watch the cam or crank timing marks, you are close to TDC when the crank pulley key (dowel pin) is just about perfectly pointing to the front of the car. Note that the dowel pins on the cam gears will be a few degrees before and after straight up on the intake and exhaust cams respectively when at TDC. When the cam pulleys are lined up, the crank pulley will most likely be a few degrees BTDC.
17.
Alright, now that we've confirmed the crank and cam pulleys are at TDC, we can remove the valve cover so we have access to the cam gears...
Remove the twelve 10mm bolts holding the valve cover down. Carefully pull the cover off. The gasket maybe to stuck to the head with sealant in the corners of the outside cam bearing caps and may be pulled out of the cover. There are four individual gaskets around each spark plug holes, make sure not to lose any.
It is a good idea to stick the valve cover in a clean plastic trash bag and set it in a safe place...don't leave it open and laying on the floor and never set it down on the gasket side to keep it clean.
NOTE: once the valve cover is off, be extremely careful about not dropping or getting anything inside the head. Keep the shop/garage as clean as possible while the cover is off. Even the smallest piece of trash can clog some oil jets and/or score journals/bearings. If you have to stop in the middle of the install for any reason, lay the valve cover or a clean plastic trash bag over the head to keep junk out.
18.
We want to break the cam gear bolts loose prior to inserting the tensioner tool. This is done in case there is any movement of the timing belt that may throw the timing off of TDC while trying to break the bolts. Hold the cams at the nut section (outlined) with a 26mm or 1-1/16" open end wrench. If you don't have an open end wrench that large on tap, an adjustable wrench (gulp) will work too. Most aftermarket cams will either have the same 26mm or a 25mm (1") nut on them.
If you don't have an impact gun, getting the cam gear bolts off is all about leverage. Just make sure not to punch a nice big dent in your aluminum hood when those suckers finally break loose. Do not remove the cam gear bolts, just break them loose.
And, yes, the stock cams are definitely hollow as can be seen by the hole in the middle of the nut.
19.
Re-check your timing marks to see that they are still on TDC. Simply lay the valve cover back on the head to verify the cam timing and check that the crank mark is in the same time as you noted in Step 15. If the timing is off, move it back to TDC.
When you are sure everything is at TDC, grab some tie straps and strap the timing belt to the cam gears.
20.
Get your timing belt tool (inset) and insert it into the access hole at the front of the timing cover. Thread it in by hand and then slowly tighten it down with a socket. Waiting a few seconds between turns will allow the auto tensioner to settle and will make turning it easier.