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View Full Version : EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT Driveline Fluid MegaMerge



jondukes
09-23-2004, 08:41 PM
just swapped tranny fluid at roughly 15,000 miles Â*, and anyone who has not done this needs to, its very easy and the end result is a greatly improved Â*shift transition ,smoother overall ride, and butter soft gear selection Â*. Â*definently a must.
i used bg syncroshift
special thanks to GT40 for his post on this subject located in tech articles and how to's

trinydex: please change your tranny fluid after each track event. these fluids, particularly engine oil and transmission oil BREAK DOWN WITH HEAT. a track day is ALL HEAT for those two parts and those two parts are ALWAYS MOVING. that means your tranny is ALWAYS MOVING which means if there is weak fluid in there, you're DOING DAMAGE!

the number ONE reason for lubrication, the ONLY reason for lubrication is because of HEAT! if there were no heat generated, if there were no friction, if there were no heat stress wear, there would be no reason for lubricants. so when your lubricants FAIL to stop the heat, when they're too thin because they're too broken down, YOU'RE DOING DAMAGE!

basic picture is this. engine oil gets too thin, less lubricity, engine runs hotter, pistons want to melt, detonation wants to blow it all apart. tranny oil gets too hot, gears no longer getting lubricity, gears heat up even more, gears want to warp and expand out of spec. all bad.

finally PLEASE READ ALL THE PAGES, the bs has been snipped out already.

Gear Grinder
09-23-2004, 09:27 PM
I did this at 3000 miles. That smooth feeling only lasts a couple thousand miles though. It is worth it I agree. It's good to clean out all the crud.
I have three un opened bottles of BG syncroshift. Thats enough to change your trans oil. If anyone wants them they can have them for free. You just have to pick them up.
PM me if interested.

rino
09-23-2004, 09:46 PM
I did this at 3000 miles. That smooth feeling only lasts a couple thousand miles though. It is worth it I agree. It's good to clean out all the crud.
I have three un opened bottles of BG syncroshift. Thats enough to change your trans oil. If anyone wants them they can have them for free. You just have to pick them up.
PM me if interested.

you got PM!

I need to do this... I don't know if it will get rid of the 2nd to 3rd problem everyone and their momma is having..

gt40
09-23-2004, 09:58 PM
It takes about 10 minutes without knowing what you are doing. Change it frequently. The mag drain bolt on my sig is after 7k... look at all the metal...

kimletrim
09-28-2004, 09:53 PM
Looks like a dealer is trying to void my warranty for having Redline Shockproof gear oil in my rear differential. I'll post updates.

I already know that if they do deny warrantable repair i will fight it, but damn...pissses me off that they will find each and every way to blame the owner for a manufacturing defect before they get to the heart of the problem. Grrr....

drmosh
09-28-2004, 10:08 PM
Looks like a dealer is trying to void my warranty for having Redline Shockproof gear oil in my rear differential. I'll post updates.

I already know that if they do deny warrantable repair i will fight it, but damn...pissses me off that they will find each and every way to blame the owner for a manufacturing defect before they get to the heart of the problem. Grrr....

What a bunch of asses, the manual clearly states GL-4 or GL-5 certified. Show them the manual.

kimletrim
09-28-2004, 10:22 PM
Exactly..I checked the manual first and even brought this to their attention and their response was. the manual is basically worthless...we have a TSB that says only Mitsu fluids are acceptable. BS

Won't go into full details quite yet..seeing what stealership is going to do since the car is still there (wait, one of the techs took it home to road test it). We'll see.

nurb2
09-28-2004, 11:48 PM
What crap ass dealer is this?

-nurb2-

DTunedEvoX
09-29-2004, 09:51 AM
Hes in the SFV so '[m assuming it be Miller Mitsubishi on Van Nuys (Where I bought my car) ...

Or he could of went to Glendale Mitsubishi or even as far as Thousand Oaks Mitsubishi (I got here for my service) ....

Lets wait and see what happens ...

toku-one
09-29-2004, 10:57 AM
TO mitsu seems to be a little more easy going (at least when i talked to them about intake/exhaust)

but i could be wrong.

robi
09-29-2004, 04:47 PM
Try to by some "factory spec" fluids at their parts counter most dealerships don't even stock them

kimletrim
09-29-2004, 11:27 PM
That is what I am talking about...went to dealer and they said none in stock, we only get them in the 5 gallon containers...wtf am I going to do with 5 gallons?

Anyways, got car back from dealer and I paid to get stock fluids put back in and guess what, the chattering at low speed corners is gone. I guess there is something to be said for the stock fluids in our driveline. Weird, never had any problems withe my AWD Eclipse with BG sychro and Redline.

Lesson: Stick with stock fluids to be safe. ( I am hoping my differentials are OK as well as my transfercase)

robi
09-30-2004, 12:40 AM
Nah you just forgot to ad the friction modifier to the rear dif fluid...without it the read clutch packs "chatter" the factory lube comes with it included (or your dealer put it in and didn't tell you.

silverevo05
01-03-2005, 02:36 PM
anyone having probs on 05 evo 5spd, engaging into 2nd. This seems to happen at slow speeds, and yes the clutch is completely pressed in. I've heard of 4th gear on 03-04's but just curious if im the only one.

ovenmit331
01-03-2005, 02:43 PM
any attempt at double clutching? does it help any? or is this just when going from 1st to 2nd gear?

EvoVIII
01-03-2005, 04:39 PM
I think is the cold Weather

kimletrim
01-03-2005, 06:36 PM
Yeah my 03 has trouble engaging into 2nd when my operating temps are cold. The shifting improves once the engine is warm.

DrMerl
01-03-2005, 08:50 PM
Yep, the Evo is a bit cranky when it's cold. More so when shifting at lower rpms while grannying to warm up. Make sure to apply pressure to the left when doing the 1-2. Just have to put up with it, think Ferrari (cranky bastards when cold).

tasco
01-03-2005, 08:58 PM
I sometimes end up shifting slower than usual when going into second, it seems to help.

Macky
01-03-2005, 09:07 PM
pretty much all MT cars, when cold, dont shift as well. changing to better trany fluids do help, but in general, wait for the transaxle and engine oil temps to warm before getting aggressive on your driving :wink:

evomrguy
01-04-2005, 01:57 AM
My mr's 2nd gear is a little cranky when cold, once it warms up though it seems to be just fine.
Though I havent done it on my mr yet I installed the bg synchro shift that rre sells in both of my 5 speed eclipse turbos, one 1g and the other a 2g. They both had the 1-2 shift grind problem. After the synchroshift the shift from 1-2 was seemless, even when cold. I definitely recommend switching to the bg fluid if your having problems, it makes a world of difference.

Evo-8
01-04-2005, 01:03 PM
Edit egain: I checked 3 different pep boys, 2 different autozones, kragen and NAPAA and none of them had 75/85 GL-4 oil for my t-case. Mitsu says they dont carry oil for the front or rear diff which is odd. Unless they get that shit in giant barrels how do they fill our cars? Anyone know what i can substitute that oil with? i called rre and the guy i talked to said to just use 75/90 and he said to find a gl-4 version. Any other suggestions?


EDIT: I can't find 75/85 GL-4 fluid for my t-case thought i was able to find 75/95 GL-5 for my rear differential. Mitsu doesnt have it and neither does pepboys or autozone. Anyone? Also i dont wanna order it online unless i have no choice but im sure if our cars need it, someone sells the shit.




I need to change the fluids in my front and rear diff and i need to know if i should just use what the dealer wants to use or is there something better. I'm staying away from redline fluids. Any other recomendations?

gofaster87
01-04-2005, 01:30 PM
Royal purple works great. They dont have a straight sae 90 but an 85/140 with lsd addititve that I know everyone has had luck with. So far so good for me.

toku-one
01-04-2005, 01:36 PM
sam did you use royal purple in your t-case and rear diff or did you use redline in one of them?

gofaster87
01-04-2005, 01:40 PM
sam did you use royal purple in your t-case and rear diff or did you use redline in one of them?

I used it in both.

turbolarry
01-04-2005, 01:42 PM
Staight out the manual;

Manual transaxle;
Gear oil API classification GL-4 SAE 75W-85W or 75W-90

Rear differential gear oil;
Hypoid gear oil API classification GL-5 or higher
• Above −23°C(−10°F): SAE90,
85W-90, 80W-90
• −34 to −23°C(−30 to −10°F):
SAE80W, 80W-90
• Below −34°C(−30°F): SAE75W

Transfer oil;
Hypoid gear oil API classification GL-5 SAE90

turbolarry
01-04-2005, 02:02 PM
BG Syncro Shift Transmission Oil

http://www.roadraceengineering.com/eclfluids.htm

Evo-8
01-04-2005, 02:23 PM
thanks guys, also how much will i need for each?

Evo-8
01-04-2005, 07:16 PM
Mitsu wants to charge $150 to change my rear diff fluid. One hundred and fifty fukin dollars! The fluid itself is about $5. Hmm. $145 dollars for 15 minutes laybor. Sounds fair to me. Looks like ill definitey be doing this one myself.

toku-one
01-04-2005, 08:13 PM
you need 3 quarts for the tranny
3/4 quart for the rear diff
and 1/2 quart for the t-case

Evo-8
01-05-2005, 12:12 PM
you need 3 quarts for the tranny
3/4 quart for the rear diff
and 1/2 quart for the t-case

thanks bro. By the way, anyone know where i can get the GL-4 75/85 required for the front? I couldn't find any. For the front i'm gonna use Mobile 1 Synthetic GL-5 75/90

Mike W
01-05-2005, 04:18 PM
We use the plain BG Syncroshift for the tranny. I see no benifit in paying extra and using the BG-II (synthetic). The BG Syncroshift has the right amount of slippery lube to keep the bearings and gears happy and the right amount of grippy additives to keep the syncros grabing the gears like they supposed to also. BG Syncroshift is not rated for Hypoid gears like what are in the transfer case and the rear diff. It is only for the transmission.

We use Red Line Heavy Shockproof gear oil in the transfer case. The Shockproof is a nasty thick raspberry syrup looking goo that sticks to everything and coats the whole innards of the transfer case. Almost like some weird liquid grease. Nothing protects the ring and pinion better. Jump on some national e-tard peanut gallery and you'll see all kinds of goofy opinions on what works in the transfer case and what dont. So many transfer cases were not shimmed correctly from the factory that you cant give any rear weight to what the peanut gallery says.

We use Red Line 75/90 in the rear diff. The 75/90 has the LSD addidive in it to keep the clutch plates in the rear diff happy. Shock Proof and BG do not.

BG is $29 for three quarts here, the two different Red Line fluids are $9 each. $47 buys it all.

Mike W

Mike W
01-05-2005, 04:25 PM
And just to keep you thoroghly confused, your FRONT DIFFERENTIAL is inside the transfer case but is lubricated by the transmission oil. The CENTER DIFFERENTIAL is inside the transmission and also is lubricated by the transmission oil. Only the ring and pinion of the transfer case get lubbed by what ever oil you have inside your transfer case. The VISCOUS COUPLER happens to also live inside the transfer case but it has it's own special silicon based goo sealed inside.

Mike W

Mike W
01-05-2005, 04:33 PM
MIKE, HOW MUCH FOR INSTALL?

If that was all you did, prolly about $75 for labor for all three. The plastic undertray has to come off. Most of the time is getting the car in and out of the shop, up on the lift, tools out and put away... But if you did just about anything else at the same time the labor would be about half that since the car would already be in and up and all the tools out.

We pay about $2,000 a year in permits and fees just to be able to deal with used oil :-)

Mike W

Evo-8
01-05-2005, 04:37 PM
And just to keep you thoroghly confused, your FRONT DIFFERENTIAL is inside the transfer case but is lubricated by the transmission oil. The CENTER DIFFERENTIAL is inside the transmission and also is lubricated by the transmission oil. Only the ring and pinion of the transfer case get lubbed by what ever oil you have inside your transfer case. The VISCOUS COUPLER happens to also live inside the transfer case but it has it's own special silicon based goo sealed inside.

Mike W


Damnit Mike. Mission thoroghly confuse Abtin complete!

Here is my deal. I already bought BG-syncroshift from u guys and changed my transmition fluid. I havnt touched anything else. I now have 21k miles on the car and a loud howling sound as i drive. Mitsubishi tech says my rear diff fluid is "Sticky as hell" so i bought some mobile 1 synthetic 75/90 gl-5 to put in the rear diff. Do i need to change any other fluids? for the t-case? try and make it simple for the non evo fluid gods such as myself. Thanks!

Mike W
01-05-2005, 04:57 PM
Change the transfer case oil too then. But if things are howling, the gears are tore up. The damage is probably already done.

Mike W

gofaster87
01-05-2005, 04:59 PM
Mine started howling since the exedy twin plate clutch was installed but so far everything is working alright and no metal shavings.

Evo-8
01-05-2005, 05:32 PM
Change the transfer case oil too then. But if things are howling, the gears are tore up. The damage is probably already done.

Mike W

awww.

Does the rear diff have some kind of magnetic bolt like the tranny so i can see metal shavings if any?

Evo-8
01-05-2005, 08:17 PM
Nevermind i already did it and there was infact a magnet. Barely any shavings at all though.

The majority of the howling sound has gone away. Almost back the way it was before this all happened. But if i floor it in 1st or 2nd gear it makes a VERY VERY loud metal scraping sound. But if i floor it in any gear from 3rd gear up, i get no noise. Anyone know what the hell this is? I still havnt replaced the oil in the t-case because i can't find any.

Mike W
01-06-2005, 03:47 AM
Nevermind i already did it and there was infact a magnet. Barely any shavings at all though.

The majority of the howling sound has gone away. Almost back the way it was before this all happened. But if i floor it in 1st or 2nd gear it makes a VERY VERY loud metal scraping sound. But if i floor it in any gear from 3rd gear up, i get no noise. Anyone know what the hell this is? I still havnt replaced the oil in the t-case because i can't find any.

And where all did you look for this ellusive transfer case oil again? I could swear that there must be some shop in So Cal that specializes in EVOs that would keep a couple quarts on hand :-/

Maybe some people are cornfusing the gear slop coasting noise for worn ring and pinion howling... When ever you put in a clutch with stiffer than stock springs in the clutch disc or any kind of solid hub clutch you will get more drivetrain noise. The nice soft squishy spring in the stock clutch disc dont transmit much driveline noise. But stiffer or no springs will let you hear all the slop in every gear between the motor and the wheels. You only hear it a part throttle cruising and especially on coasting.

Noises under throttle and especially more louder the faster you go... that is a worn ring and pinion gear (either in the transfer case or rear diff).

Mike W

Evo-8
01-06-2005, 03:45 PM
the louder noise didnt start after i put in one of your x-clutches. Actually i did get some louder ambient noise but thats not what i mean. About 2-3 months ago my clutch was dropped with no slip at about 5k rpm. not racing, just poor anger management. After that i got this horrible metal scraping sound for about 200 yards. After that there was no problem for the next few hundred miles. Then i got the LOUD howling sound about 500 miles later, which is now fixed. But once i hit decent boost in first or second gear i get a "VERY" loud metal scraping sound. By very loud i mean very very loud. Not just "wow thats an annoying sound" i mean "Holy shit what the hell was that!" kind of sound. When i let off the gas it goes away. The shops i checked were ur average pepboys/autozone/kraigen/napaa type shops not tuner shops. I would love to come over to u guys again but thats a killer trip. I've seen u guys before. Actually Mike im pretty sure u drove my car. I had the black evo with the x-clutch that wouldnt let me change gears at high rpms untill u guys adjusted the pedal for me. Anyway it seems im going to have to make the trip to see you guys. U think you would have time to take my car for a quick spin so you can hear the noise for yourself and tell me if im gonna have to rape my wallet? I would really appretiate it. THANKS!

EVOgan
04-27-2005, 01:21 PM
i live in LA and wondering which shockproof i should use in my T-case thanks~

tama_mog
04-27-2005, 01:30 PM
you want the heavy shockproof.

kimletrim
04-27-2005, 02:10 PM
I used the heavy shockproof and I got grinding noises at low speed. Switched to stock fluids and no more noise. i want to try the Redline again, but I'm afraid of the noise.

TrickedOutEVOVIII
04-29-2005, 12:23 PM
heavy in the t-case and 75W90 in the rear diff...works just fine. RREs advice as well.

Chrison
04-29-2005, 02:34 PM
I used the heavy shockproof and I got grinding noises at low speed. Switched to stock fluids and no more noise. i want to try the Redline again, but I'm afraid of the noise.

I have the same problem, I will switch to motul...

Chrison
04-30-2005, 11:58 PM
Just switched to Motul today.....much better than redline.
reduce noise, smoother and the noise on the LSD is gone.
JDM rocks.....

ShangTsung
05-02-2005, 02:30 AM
Redline lists the heavy shockproof as SAE 250 grade. You're suppossed to use 90. Talk about ruining your drivetrain.

rino
05-03-2005, 02:15 AM
just use the oem stuff

nj1266
08-05-2005, 04:05 PM
And just to keep you thoroghly confused, your FRONT DIFFERENTIAL is inside the transfer case but is lubricated by the transmission oil. The CENTER DIFFERENTIAL is inside the transmission and also is lubricated by the transmission oil. Only the ring and pinion of the transfer case get lubbed by what ever oil you have inside your transfer case. The VISCOUS COUPLER happens to also live inside the transfer case but it has it's own special silicon based goo sealed inside.

Mike W
I am a brand spanking new 2005 EVO owner. I have a question and would appreciate your help. As you know the 2005 come with a Helical front LSD. Since the tranny fluid lubes the front diff, is the BG syncroshift still recommended for the 2005 EVO? Some say that the BG is very runny, for lack of a better name. Is that good enough for a helical diff that generates heat?

I have a FWD SE-R with a Quaife installed in the tranny. Our community has found that Shockprrof Heavy is the best tranny fluid to use to preserve the tranny of our hard driven cars. Do you recommend the use of ShockProof Heavy in the EVO 2005 tranny/front diff? (I am assuming that s you stated the tranny fluid also lubes the front diff)

Alfred@TTech
08-08-2005, 08:59 AM
EDIT: I can't find 75/85 GL-4 fluid for my t-case thought i was able to find 75/95 GL-5 for my rear differential. Mitsu doesnt have it and neither does pepboys or autozone. Anyone? Also i dont wanna order it online unless i have no choice but im sure if our cars need it, someone sells the shit.



Mike W is correct........

BTW, if you still need it, we carry the Mitsubishi facotry Diaqueen TC fluid in stock.

Good luck

bcmind
11-10-2005, 09:10 PM
Engine Oil
Transmission
Center Differential?
Rear Differential?
Transfer Case?
Break fluid

Anything else???? ?Please let me know!

lagcisco
01-21-2006, 12:35 PM
so I purchased the following fluids from RRE, 3qts of BG Synchroshift 1, 3qts of Redline Heavy Weight Shock Proof, 1qt of Redline 75w90

I know for sure that the BG Synchroshift is for the tranny and will be following this guide on changing it:
http://www.evomoto.com/tech_info.php?tPath=2&tech_id=26

for the transfer case i'll be following:
http://www.evomoto.com/tech_info.php?tPath=2&tech_id=25

but for the transfer case and rear diff, I'm not sure which of the oils was supposed to be put in the transfercase and rear diff, the shock proof or the 75w90?

all this on a 05 GSR

nurb2
01-21-2006, 12:39 PM
75W90 in the rear diff.

Here are two guides I have bookmarked ...

Rear Diff
http://forums.evolutionm.net/showthread.php?t=54218

Tranny/Xfer/Diff
http://www.norcalevo.net/forums/viewtopic.php?t=392

-nurb2-

lagcisco
01-21-2006, 12:50 PM
hey those are good links, thanks!

I did more searching (different words) and found a bunch of threads like this one I started with my questions already answered

anyhow, time to start the flush, thanks again.

for future searchers, the results I found were:

Tranny: BG Synchroshift
Transfercase: Redline Heavy Shock Proof
Rear Diff: Redline 75w90

morgo333
08-07-2006, 04:56 PM
Ok, I changed all my fluids about 4k miles ago, and just read today that I was supposed to use friction modifier in my rear diff., which I did not do. I am going to change it out, and add it , but could this have done any damage? And is redline still the best to use, or is the general consensus that I should use mitsu stuff.

morgo333
08-07-2006, 05:07 PM
wait, does anyone know if shockproof heavy weight has the friction modifier already in it??? I was just reading and someone said to use the redline fluid that already has it..... Im assuming this is it??? and when people use the same fluid for the tc and rear diff. is when u need to add the friction modifier to the rear???

C-Spec
08-07-2006, 05:08 PM
i put that stuff in my old tranny. works well. another thing be carefull it smells really bad. If you use aftermarket fluid, don't worry about it.

morgo333
08-07-2006, 05:17 PM
ok, I just read that the redline 75w 90 gear oil already has the fricion modifier in it.....And that is what I read that most people are putting in both their tc, and rear diff. So does anyone know if the Heavy shockproof needs friction modifier?

kimletrim
08-07-2006, 05:21 PM
Yes, hte heavy shockproof stuff needs the friction modifier.

morgo333
08-07-2006, 05:24 PM
so should I just switch to the redline 75w 90?, or add some friction modifier

earlyapex
08-07-2006, 05:41 PM
wait, Im an idiot! Now that I think of it I used the heavy shockproof in the tc, and the 75w 90 in the rear diff......So do I need to add anything or am I good? thanks for the help byÂ* the way.


That is correct.

Redline shockproof heavy in TC
Redline 75w90 in the rear diff

trinydex
08-08-2006, 01:31 PM
Engine Oil
Transmission
Center Differential?
Rear Differential?
Transfer Case?
Break fluid

Anything else???? ?Please let me know!


brake fluid doesn't need to be changed often unless you boil your fluid with lots of hard driving or track time. if your pedal gets soft then you have a problem.

center diff does not need to be changed until the viscous fluid is dead, that won't be for a long time and when that happens you'll have to take care of that, but no one has gotten there yet.

trinydex
08-12-2006, 02:37 AM
it does appear that the 6 speed should take a different fluid as many who have the 6speed and use bg get really uncomfortable shifting at all times. please consult a transmission building expert on which types of fluid are best used in the evolution 6 speeds.

other notes. bg synchroshift II is a fully synthetic fluid that is slightly more expensive than the normal bg synchroshift and is highly recommended as it does not break down as quickly. reagardless, you should always change your tranny fluid after every event.

also common mixes used are 1 bottle redline mt-90 + 2 bottles bg synchroshift (1 or 2). and 2 bottles redline mtl + 1 bottle bg sychroshift (1 or 2)

http://www.socalevo.net/index.php?option=com_smf&Itemid=26&topic=26436.0

a tad more reading for those concerned with such issues.

909EVO8
01-11-2007, 05:24 PM
If anyone buys the EVO Power pack from Redline make sure you purchase the Shockproof separately, The power pack does not come with shockproof and it is needed for the Transfer case. Trust me I know!

trinydex
01-11-2007, 05:51 PM
YES! i drained andrew's transfer case and we flushed it three time with gear oil with still more pinion gear sludge coming out only after 1100 miles!

ebevo
02-09-2007, 05:34 PM
Redline lists the heavy shockproof as SAE 250 grade. You're suppossed to use 90. Talk about ruining your drivetrain.


thinking about doing the tranny, TC, dif fluid change @RRE

any truth to the quote above?

trinydex
02-09-2007, 05:36 PM
nope... mortal kombat is dumb school