INSTALL: oil pressure and temperature sensors

[trinydex]

http://bolsen.homeip.net/oilgauge.htm

Oil Pressure and Temp senders

1. Loosen passenger side lug nuts.

2. Jack up front end (don't be a bum, put it on stands) and remove the passenger side tire.

3. Inside the wheel well, you'll see a cover that can be removed via some snaps. Remove this cover so you can clearly see the oil filter.

4. Remove the oil filter.

5. Take a look at the oil filter housing. You will notice (2) screws going into the housing. Both these screws need to come out. Just so you know, they are in there tight! I got a pict of one of them.

http://www.socalevo.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10991/normal_DSC05995.JPG

http://www.socalevo.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10991/normal_DSC05997.JPG

6. On the bung to the left of the filter (the one NOT above the filter) insert the first 3/8" to 1/8" reducer. Don't forget your teflon tape! Once you get that screwed in nice and snug, install your right angle fitting. (I had a left over "T" fitting that I used, that's why you see it there.)

7. Attach your oil pressure sender to the right angle fitting. Align it as in the picture.

http://www.socalevo.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10991/normal_DSC06009.JPG

8. Install the other 1/2" to 1/8" reducer in the other bung above the filter. (Tip: If you screw in the temp sender prior to the reducer first, then install the fitting into the bung, you'll save yourself some effort.)

9. Screw in your temp sender, if you haven't already.

http://www.socalevo.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10991/normal_DSC06002.JPG

10. Your oil housing should look like this.

http://www.socalevo.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10991/normal_DSC06011.JPG

http://www.socalevo.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10991/normal_DSC06010.JPG

11. Run your wires from the senders through the firewall to your gauges. There is a hole in the firewall on the passenger side of the car. (Tip: prior to running your wires, measure out a good length and cut the wires. Tape the ends of the wires together with electrical tape. Now take a drill and twist the wires together. This will keep your wires looking nice and clean. Just make sure to label them first.)

11. Attach your wires to your appropriate gauges.

12. If you are putting the gauges in the center console, splice ignition and dimmer from the cig lighter. Red is ignition, green/white is dimmer. Ground to the chasis.

13. Put your filter back on and reassemble the wheel well panel.

14. Start the car and check for leaks. If all is well, put the tire back on and check your oil for proper level.

[GOOSE_Ej]

i already have oil temp from dealer but i really dont get wat this guy did for the oil pressure gauge

[kimletrim]

That's how I did my oil pressure sender! Great write up.

[tabio42]

How come you didn't put the temp on the other side of that T-piece?

[earlyapex]

nice write up, it just shows that you don't need the Greddy oil adapter in order to run oil temp and oil pressure sensors... Good thing this came along before doing my gauges on my 05...
good stuff !


not necessary no...but with the Greddy Adaptor it will be easier to put the car back to stock if you want to


The greddy adaptor also makes the oil filter sit lower to the ground.

Another thing to point out, is if you switch the fittings mentioned above and put the oil temp probe where the oil pressure sender is in the photos above, you're oil temp readings will be before the oil cooler and be much higher.

This is how I have mine. At first I was freaking out but then realized it's probably better to see what kinda oil temps the engine is actually spitting out.

[trinydex]

This morning, I needed to change my oil, so I figured it was the best time to get that oil temp sender adapter installed. :)

Step 1:

Put your oil pan under the filter. Remove oil filter.

Step 2:

Using a 17mm socket, remove the oil drain plug and drain the oil.

Step 3:

Replace the crush washer. Replace the oil drain plug and torque to specs. For me, the spec is "tight". :lol:

Step 4:

Wipe some old oil on the O-ring of the new oil filter, and screw the new filter in, hand tight.

Step 5:

Get an 8mm hex adapter socket and use your ratchet to get the plug out of the oil filter block. You should use a ratchet that gives you enough leverage.

Step 6:

Screw in your 3/8" BSPT adapter from 42DD, me, or some other manufacturer. I couldn't find the torque specs for the plug, so I just made it about as tight as it was when I removed it. If you know the torque specs, please let me know. In this pic, I used the 42DD adapter instead of my own, because I realized at the last minute that I forgot to make the 1/8" BSPT thread on my adapter! Screw in the oil temp sender.

http://www.socalevo.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10991/INSTALL%20oil%20pressure%20and%20temperature%20sen ders%20%2007.jpg

Step 7:

Follow my instructions on "How to Install GReddy gauges" (http://www.norcalevo.net/index.php?option=com_smf&Itemid=2&topic=7287.0) to get your gauges wired. Run the wire for the oil temp sender appropriately.

http://www.socalevo.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10991/INSTALL%20oil%20pressure%20and%20temperature%20sen ders%20%2008.jpg

http://www.socalevo.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10991/INSTALL%20oil%20pressure%20and%20temperature%20sen ders%20%2009.jpg

http://www.socalevo.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10991/INSTALL%20oil%20pressure%20and%20temperature%20sen ders%20%2010.jpg

http://www.socalevo.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10991/INSTALL%20oil%20pressure%20and%20temperature%20sen ders%20%2011.jpg

http://www.socalevo.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10991/INSTALL%20oil%20pressure%20and%20temperature%20sen ders%20%2012.jpg

Here's a overview of the locations in one shot (minus the one on the dipstick):

http://www.socalevo.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10991/INSTALL%20oil%20pressure%20and%20temperature%20sen ders%20%2013.jpg

If you have any constructive comments on proper wire routing, I would really appreciate it! I tried to avoid the pulleys and driveshaft, but it's tough. This is an old shot of where the wire runs. It's actually not as close to the driveshaft anymore:

http://www.socalevo.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10991/INSTALL%20oil%20pressure%20and%20temperature%20sen ders%20%2014.jpg

Step 8:

Zip tie the wire to the oil return line (I think that's what this location is) so that the wire doesn't hang down.

http://www.socalevo.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10991/INSTALL%20oil%20pressure%20and%20temperature%20sen ders%20%2015.jpg

Step 9:

Connect the gauge to the oil temp sender, and you're done!





Nice writeup Dave! I'll throw in my 2 cents about torqing pipe threads.

I wouldn't try torqing anything w/ pipe threads. Pipe threads are flared and have different fastening characteristics compared to a standard threaded bolt. The expanding diameter of the flared threads is what holds the plug/fitting in place and gives it a seal.

In order to properly torque a standard bolt, the bolt head has to bottom out against a surface. Once that happens, tightening the bolt more will stretch it and put tension on it. Fittings and plugs should never bottom out. If they do, something is wrong and there won't be a seal.

I've seen torque specs for plugs before, tried torqing them to those specs but was never successful. The best thing to do is to just tighten them til they're snug and then another 1/8 - 1/4 turn.




That's a really great point, Mark, thanks! So I guess my "tight" spec should be what you said -- snug, then 1/4 turn. I'm just going to leave them the way they are, then start up the car and check for leaks. Of course, you should always do that after changing your oil anyway. :)

Any tips on the wire routing? I've run the wire along the top of the firewall, zip tying to the frame where possible. I then zip tied to what I think is a pipe for the HVAC system, and then across to the dipstick, behind the alternator. From there, I'm not sure what to do to avoid the driveshaft. I'm going to take some picture now and hopefully can upload them tonight when I get home.




I would not zip tie the electrical line to any parts that will got hot. Two I see in the photos are the metal oil line coming from the oil cooler, oil dipstick line and also the coolant line going by the intake manifold.

I routed mine up in the fender well just like stock and into the cabin under the glovebox. That way you don't have to mess with any of the areas you are showing in the photos.






I would not zip tie the electrical line to any parts that will got hot. Two I see in the photos are the metal oil line coming from the oil cooler, oil dipstick line and also the coolant line going by the intake manifold.

I routed mine up in the fender well just like stock and into the cabin under the glovebox. That way you don't have to mess with any of the areas you are showing in the photos.


Yeah, that's what I was worried about... thanks for the tip. But what should I do? You said you ran it through the fender, but that doesn't address how you got it from there to your oil pan. For me, that's the tough part.

Is this one that you're concerned about? I thought that it would be ok since it's a rubber hose... unless you're referring to the heat coming off of the intake manifold.

http://www.socalevo.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10991/INSTALL%20oil%20pressure%20and%20temperature%20sen ders%20%2016.jpg

I'm not sure what to do about the dipstick part, since I couldn't zip tie anywhere else behind the alternator (my hands are small, but not small enough!), and I had to use that general area as an anchoring point to keep it away from the driveshaft. I also didn't think it was that big of a deal, since it didn't seem hot. After driving my car around to warm it up, I felt the dipstick and it wasn't hot, but I burned my arm on the screw holding on the cam gear cover. :shock:

Also, definitely not a great idea to tie to the oil line... maybe I should just cut it and let it hang? I also couldn't find any other good places to use as anchors to guide in front of the driveshaft. :(

Thanks again!

[all stock]

for the wiring, there's 4 bolt holes in the back bottom of the block, adjacent to the driveshaft. if you don't want your wiring rubbing against your cv boot, you can make a plate, run 2 holes and bolts thru. the holes are kinda short. i used the 12mm and 14mm one that's parallel with the ground. guaranteed to not touch the axle.

[darkside]

i installed a universal temp sensor from Auto zone and i have the stock evo gauges but when i connect the gauge to the sensor it always reads hot no matter if the car is cold or hot. can any body tell me what im missing or tell me what wires go to what? thanks

[JOOTZ]

good write-up
thanks for the DIY info

[nicklulu]

Would the oil temp sender unit for the IX fit on the location specified on the pics above?I want to relocate mine. I tired looking here and another site (name would not be spoken) but I haven't found an answer. I dont want to start working on it then it wont fit.

[trinydex]

what do you mean will it fit? make it fit.

[nicklulu]

what do you mean will it fit? make it fit.


If its just another bolt on a diffrent application, I would agree. But for this application I would like to be as sure as possible. I don't want to ruin the thread if it's too big because it will cost me a grip to fix. I don't want to try to jerry rig it if its too small because i might get a leak and the car dies of oil deprivation. I want to do deez right.

[trinydex]

what do you mean by sender? the sensor? there is no electronic box sender that interprets the signal for the gauge. there are for some applications from defi but not this one so perhaps i should change the title the original writer of this thing either spelled it wrong or mispoke.

will the sensor fit in the oil filter sandwich, yes. that's what it was made for. the stock gauges with the stock sensor. you need to find out if there is an adapter involved.

[nicklulu]

Let me rephrase my question.

I have an MR that came with the Mitsu gauges. The Oil Temp Sensor is also the drain plug. Instead of taking that darn sensor everytime I do an oil change and risk of damaging it, I want to relocate it. Seen on the pic on the first post in this thread, the Oil Temp Sensor is hooked up to one of the hole on the Oil filter housing. Would the Mitsu Oil Temp Sensor fit in that hole?

Sorry for the sonfusion and thank you for the reply.

[trinydex]

it will "fit" whether or not a thread adapter is required is the question that i don't have the answer to. i imagine that mitsu would either not require an adapter as those plugs are for the stock gauges. but i can also imagine that they want to make money for installing the sensors and require an adapter that only they know about or whatever.

[nicklulu]

Well if that is the case, I'll relocate the Oil Temp Sensor to the Oil Filter housing. I just don't understand why they did not do that to begin with. Most people i saw in the forum who bought the Mitsu gauges used and missing the Sensor, cannot buy it from the dealer and need to buy the whole gauge kit which is absurd.

I'm buying a Fumoto drain plug. It's like a faucet type mechanism you replace the drain plug with, takes half of the oil change work. I always use it on all my cars. 1st time i used it was because someone mis-thread the drain plug and i don't want to re-tap the thread or replace the pan. Eversince the install, no problems no leaks. I'll probably post pics and write up after i do my oil change.

Again thanks for the reply

[trinydex]

oil plug adapter is certianly the worst way to go