INSTALL: Apex-I AVC-R

[trinydex]

http://forums.evolutionm.net/showthread.php?s=&threadid=31128


This is a how to install an Apex-i AVC-R from start to finish. I have done many installs of many electronics on many japanese supercars and this was by far one of the hardest so make sure to set aside at least 3-4 hours to complete install.

Items needed goes as follows: 3 feet of Vacuum Hosing that is stock size(I believe it is 5/16 but don't quote me on that), Wire crimpers/stripers, utility knife, socket set, phillips screw driver, wire taps or soldering tool, electrical tape, Rubber hose caps(size of vacuum hosing) mechanics gloves(trust me on this one).

I suggest reading the whole installation book from back to front before attempting this install. http://www.apexi-usa.com/documentation.asp[/url] If you are not familiar with these type of installs I highly recommend having a shop do it for you. I am no way responsible for any damage to your vehicle due to this install, this is just how I did it, so this is at your own risk!

Okay, step one: First detach your positive terminal from your battery. Now remove your stock intake box. You will need a 10mm socket for this. When you pull up the box be careful, there is a wire attached to it you will need to remove. Next remove the intercooler piping and the BOV that is attached to it completely. You can use a screw driver or 10mm socket for this. Next you will need to remove the plastic hose that attaches to the inlet of the turbo. This is very difficult, due to the fact that the screw is located under the inlet at the turbo, so I recommend using a 10mm socket with no extension, sliding it down and loosen it from below. Now you have removed everything necessary to begin the install.

Step 2, the Solenoid valve install: Okay now you will need to remove the hosing that connects to the turbo inlet, waste gate actuator, the stock solenoid (both hoses) and the hose attached to the plastic pipe that goes to the turbo inlet. All of these will need to be capped using the rubber hose caps except for the waste gate actuator. Here is a picture of the stock solenoid located beneath the intake box

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/i=wMTM0NDgwNnM0MTNkZmQzMXk1NDE%3D

You will now need to cut the hose that goes from the intake to the BOV. You will need to put a T in the middle of the hose.

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/i=wMTM0NDc3NnM0MTNkZmQzMXk1NDE%3D

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/i=wMTM0NDc5NnM0MTNkZmQzMXk1NDE%3D

Now run a hose from the waste gate actuator to the COM side of the AVC-R solenoid valve. Then run a hose from the T in the BOV hose to the NO side of the solenoid valve. Now where you choose to mount this is up to you. Make sure the hosing is the proper length to go to where you want to mount it. I chose to mount it between the BOV and the engine block, away from heat and the elements.

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/i=wMTM0NDc5NnM0MTNkZmQzMXk1NDE%3D

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/i=wMTM0NDc3NnM0MTNkZmQzMXk1NDE%3D

Step 3, the pressure sensor
Now, go ahead and reinstall all the stock components you removed. Be sure to make notes of what you disconnected and how so you are sure you reinstalled it correctly. After you have done this you need to locate the vacuum hose that goes from the fuel pressure regulator to the intake in the back passenger side of the engine bay

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/i=wMTM0NDg5NnM0MTNkZmQzMXk1NDE%3D

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/i=wMTM0NDgzNnM0MTNkZmQzMXk1NDE%3D

You will need to place a T in the line and run a hose to the pressure sensor. Make sure to put the plastic air filter (white disk looking thing) in the line going to the pressure sensor. Make sure to mount it facing down. I chose to mount it on the back pressure hose for the A/C

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/i=wMTM0NDgyNnM0MTNkZmQzMXk1NDE%3D

You are now done with the engine bay for the moment now time for the interior.

Step 4, the computer wiring.

The ecu it located behind the glove box, it is not hard to remove. I chose to buy a fields harness which is an ecu extension harness. I pre-wired all of my connections before putting it into the car.

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/i=wMTM0NDc2NnM0MTNkZmQzMXk1NDE%3D

Follow the wiring directions on which wires tap into what. The wiring diagram in the installation book for 98 and up is the correct wiring diagram for our car too so you can follow its directions

http://www.apexi-usa.com/productdocumentation/electronics_savcr_wire.pdf

Step 5, running the connectors into the engine bay
This has to be the hardest part of the whole install. These connectors are big and you have to push them through a little hole in your firewall. I chose to use the hole that the ecu wires use to go into the engine bay.

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/i=wMTM0NDc0NnM0MTNkZmQzMXk1NDE%3D

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/i=wMTM0NDc1NnM0MTNkZmQzMXk1NDE%3D

Use the utility knife to cut a good size hole through the side of the rubber into the engine bay (be careful not to cut any ecu wires in the process). This is what the outside of the hole going into the engine bay looks like

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/i=wMTM0NDgxNnM0MTNkZmQzMXk1NDE%3D

It’s the round rubber thing in the bottom right hand corner of the picture. Now push your connectors into the engine bay and connect the right ones to the solenoid valve and the pressure sensor

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/i=wMTM0NDkwNnM0MTNkZmQzMXk1NDE%3D

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/i=wMTM0NDkyNnM0MTNkZmQzMXk1NDE%3D

I made sure to zip tie the wire going to the solenoid wire to the cross bar. Now tuck back all your ecu wires and put the ecu back in and now it's time to install the AVC-R unit. I ran the wire through the center console using a coat hanger and ran it up under the steering wheel column

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/i=wMTM0NDkzNnM0MTNkZmQzMXk1NDE%3D

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/i=wMTM0NDk0NnM0MTNkZmQzMXk1NDE%3D

This is where I chose to mount mine, where you choose to mount it is up to you. Now you just need to check all your connections, hoses, and turn the key to start programming and your done.

If you have anything to add to this that I might have left out post it and if it's pertinent I will add it. Good luck

[trinydex]

Ok, so I read the install but thought I'd add a few things.
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#1. I am posting a picture, but basically, take a 4mm piece of vacuum tube and make a loop back plug where the stock hose connections to the stock solenoid. Reconnect the harness from the ECU to the stock solenoid, you will get a cel light if this is disconnected. Make sure to zip tie these and every other vacuum hose you are going to work with
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Â* Â* Â* Â*#2.Â* You will need to cap the nipple on the bottom of the Intake pipe (zip tie it)
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#3. There is a lot of stock hosing you can clean up with this install, the nipple extender at the front of the motor can be completely removed which results in the same number of fittings as the stock configuration even with the T.
Â* Â***I have redone my setup, you don't need the T.
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Take off your intake all the way to the Turbo, you will see two hoses, one is close to the radiator, the other is a few inches closer to the motor
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Â* Â*Remove these stock hoses (they are crap)
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You need to make two hoses to replace them, one end needs to be 4mm, the other needs to be 6mm. Use a vacuum coupler that downsizes for this, (2 come with the kit) You can also buy these at O'Reily's or Advance Autoparts for a couple of dollars if for some reason you don't have them with your kit.
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In my case, I cut a 6inch piece of 4mm and approx 1 ft of 6mm. I sized this to reach my solenoid, I recommend taking your own measurements to ensure optimum fit. Use as little hose as possible and do not kink the hose under any circumstances!!!!
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When you take the stock vacuum hose off, the nipples are different colors, the one closest the radiator is gold, the one further back is black.
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Â* Â*The Gold Nipple connects to the COM side of you Solenoid
Â* Â*The Black Nipple connects to the NO side of your Solenoid
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Zip tie these connections, zip tie any vacuum connection, hell, look for vacuum connections and zip tie for the hell of it. Zip ties are your friend, buy in bulk!
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#4. Feeding through the firewall is a pain in the ass, I tried to run it through a hole that I cut into that rubber flange but gave up after an hour. I ran it out the side of the glove box, through the door sill and out the hood. I posted pictures of this as well.
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#5. The pressure sensor can be zip tied to the ac tubing and with the hose coming up from underneath it will actually sit very nicely.
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I'm not sure if there is a benefit to running 6mm hose vs 4mm hose but I made an attempt to run as much 6mm as possible on the solenoid side of the install.
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**Please note, the HKS vacuum tubing is so flimsy that you can actually stretch that tube onto a 6mm nipple. Silicone 4mm will not stretch.
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***Under the stock configuration, the solenoid has one vacuum hose that goes to the turbo, this goes to a T fitting closer to the turbo. (the other hose goes to the intake) I'm really not sure how the hell this works, but it will NOT work with your Apex'i solenoid properly. You will be under boosting, running 90% duty cycle and trying to figure out why you can't keep 1Bar/14PSI.
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*****You will need to tighten the Upper IC pipe on the side coming from your Intercooler. If you don't, you will blow this pipe off. The worm clamp DOES NOT WORK for this. You will need t-bolts, u-clamps, adhesive... something.. anything. Don't even leave the garage without clamping this down beyond what HKS has provided, you won't make it home without a problem running higher boost levels!!!!
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********ZIP TIES!!!!!! Its easier to zip tie when the motor's cold then trying to zip tie a boost leak on a hot motor during dyno day!!!!