trinydex
09-12-2006, 10:12 PM
http://forums.evolutionm.net/showthread.php?t=220313
A few different people asked me to post pics of my engine build so here they are. Â*This was my second 4G63 build. Â*I built a 2.4l 6 bolt for my Talon about a year and a half ago. Â*I don't claim to be a expert, infact it amazes me that i can build a engine that runs :lol:
Here's how the whole thing started out. Â*I was offered a awesome deal on a 03 EVO with a spun #1 rod bearing. Â*After scrambling to find a truck and trailer the car came home on July 28th.
http://www.socalevo.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10991/normal_S4300177.jpg
Engine out on the 30th. Â*Block to the machine shop on the 31st. Â*Notice the dirt. Â*The car had been sitting in a machine shed since Feb 05.
The ugly, one piece crank and rod bearing {thumbdwn}
http://www.socalevo.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10991/normal_S4300322.jpg
http://www.socalevo.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10991/normal_EVO2.jpg
While I was waiting on parts decided to clean out the engine bay while there was no engine/trans in the way. Â*I covered all the hoses and pipes with plastic bags to keep water from getting where it shouldn't be:cool:
http://www.socalevo.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10991/normal_S4300197.jpg
Decided to go with a stroker, if I have to rebuild a engine might as well have some fun :D Â* Parts started showing up by Aug 2nd.
http://www.socalevo.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10991/S4300190.jpg
Block back from the machine shop on the 3rd. Â*The bores were in pretty good shape so i had the block decked, honed and hot tanked. Â*
First thing to do, give the block a bath. Â*I used foaming engine bay cleaner and simple green along with a assortment of brushes. Â*After i cleaned the block i wiped it down with clean motor oil to prevent rust, and covered it with a bag when i wasn't working on it.
http://www.socalevo.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10991/normal_S4300198.jpg
Clean block and all parts. Â*Every things ready to go. Â*Wiseco 8.5:1 2.3L pistons, Eagle rods, New mitsu 2.4L crank, Mitsu Engine Gasket kit, ACl bearings, and ARp head studs. Â*Before starting I numbered all pistons and rods 1-4 so i knew what went where and to keep all my measurements strait. Â*I also wrote the cylinder numbers on top of the block to eliminate and possibility of error.
http://www.socalevo.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10991/normal_S4300205.jpg
http://www.socalevo.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10991/normal_S4300216.jpg
I wanted to measure all clearances. Â*however I'm too cheap to buy a proper bore gauge (I'm a DSM'r), so I became quite good at using a snap gauge. Â*I took at least 3 measurements of every thing and averaged them out. Â*I also used plasti gauge, but I'll show that later. Â*Before i measured all clearances i cleaned the surfaces to be measured with brake cleaner and clan rag.
Measuring bore with snap gauge.
http://www.socalevo.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10991/normal_S4300246.jpg
Taking measurement from snap gauge with micrometer (I'm actually measuring a snap gauge used for the crank main bore, but its the same idea).
http://www.socalevo.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10991/normal_S4300218.jpg
Measuring the piston Diameter with the mic. Â*This pic is of a piston rod combo because I forgot to take a pic before I assembled the pistons and rods. :updown: Â* Difference between the 2 measurements is the piston to wall clearance. Â*I had numbers of .0020".
http://www.socalevo.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10991/normal_S4300247.jpg
Next I bolted the crank cradle to the block and torqued to spec. Â*So I could measure the crank main bores in the same way, as the cylinder bores.
http://www.socalevo.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10991/normal_S4300217.jpg
To measure the main and rod bearings i used a ball bearing and a small piece of fuel line attached to the mic so that i could get a true reading of the bearing thickness. Â*With out the ball bearing the curve of the bearing gives a inaccurate reading, as the mic has a flat end that is unable to sit on the bearings curved surface. Â*o get the total thickness of the bearings I multiplied the thickness by 2 since it sits on both sides of the crank.
http://www.socalevo.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10991/normal_S4300323.jpg
Measuring the crank main journals. Â*The difference between the main bore and the bearing thickness X2 plus the main journals is the main bearing clearance. Â*I got numbers rite around .0016"
http://www.socalevo.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10991/normal_S4300327.jpg
Since i wanted to plasti gauge the bearing clearances as well I removed the main bearing cradle and installed main bearings (after cleaning them), in both the block and the cradle. Â*I then re-installed the crank. Â*I put a piece of plasti gauge on the top of each main journal. Â*Then re-installed the main cradle and bearings, and torqued the main bolts to spec. Â*This compresses the plasti gauge between the crank and bearings. Â*Once all the bolts have been torqued to spec I removed them, and the cradle. Â*The piece of plasti gauge is now a smashed piece of wax stuck to the crank and bearing. Â*Using the supplied measuring table with the plasti gauge I measured the clearance to get .002-.003" on all 5 bearings. Â*This is pretty close to what i got with the snap gauge and mic, as well as what I wanted, so I was happy with that. :) Â* After i was done with this I cleaned the plasti gauge off the crank and bearings with WD40 and a rag.
Bearings installed in block.
http://www.socalevo.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10991/normal_S4300222.jpg
Cradle bolted down with plasti gauge.
http://www.socalevo.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10991/normal_S4300224.jpg
What it looks like after I removed the cradle and top bearings.
http://www.socalevo.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10991/normal_S4300225.jpg
Measuring the plasti gauge.
http://www.socalevo.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10991/normal_S4300226.jpg
Next i installed the crank into the block, but in hind sight I should have measured the rod to crank clearances first. Â*It would have been much easier to do with the crank out of the block. Â*I measured the rod bearing clearances much the same as the mains.
After bolting the rod caps on and torquing to spec I measured the bore diameter with the snap gauge, just like the main bores. Â*Then i measured the bearing thickness the same way as the main bearings. Â*I found my clearances just like the mains. Â*Rod race diameter minus bearing thickness X 2 + rod journal diameter. Â*My clearances were all about .0020", what I wanted :)
http://www.socalevo.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10991/normal_S4300323.jpg
Measuring the rod journals, just like the mains.
http://www.socalevo.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10991/normal_S4300325.jpg
Just like the mains I plasti gauged the rod bearings. Â*Install the clean bearings in the rod and rod cap. Â*Bolt them to the crank with a piece of plasti gauge and torque to spec. Â*All of them showed .0020" with the plasti gauge, so I was satisfied.
http://www.socalevo.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10991/normal_S4300242.jpg
Something the got me all worked up just before i started the build was Eagle has a sticker on the inside of the rod box that says their rods are to be used with 6 bolt (89-92) rod bearings. Â*Well by the time I saw this I had already ordered all my parts and I ordered 7 bolt rod bearings, I figured i was building a 7 bolt engine with 7 bolt bearings. Â*So when I noticed this sticker I called all the local parts stores looking for 6 bolt bearings. Â*NAPA got me Cleviete 77 6 bolt bearings by the next morning. Â*After all the calling around and worrying I had the wrong bearings, it turn out the 7 bolt bearings work just fine. Â*The 6 bolt bearings are 23.5mm wide vs. 7 bolts 21.1mm. Â*The thickness are the same. Â*Since i was building this engine due to a spun rod bearing I was happy about the extra 2.4mm of surface area offered by the 6 bolt bearings. Â*However the 6 bolt bearings didn't fit in the rods {thumbdwn} . Â*The tang is too wide for the slot in the rod, and its on the edge of the bearing, which causes the bearing to sit off center in the rod. Â*It was recommended by another member on here to file the tang down to make it fit. Â*But I didn't feel real comfortable doing that, and i preferred to use the coated ACL bearings vs. the Cleveites. Â*So I ended up using the 7 bolt bearings I origionally had :updown: . Â*This pic shows the difference between the 6 bolt (left) and 7 bolt (right) bearings.
http://www.socalevo.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10991/normal_S4300239.jpg
Alright next up was filing the rings. Â*Each manufacture has different recommendations for ring gap. Â*After talking with a few different people I decided on .017 for a top gap and .020" for the bottom ring. Â*Wiseco's web site has a good bit of technical info about their rings and recommended gaps. Â*I filed the rings one cylinder at a time, keeping the rings with their respective piston in the box. Â*I filed the top rings first and the bottom second. Â*I installed the bottom ring on one piston to use as a gauge for pushing each ring the same distance into the bore and to keep them flat in the bore. Â*The ring sits on the top of the block and doesn't allow the piston to go any farther into the cylinder than the ring.
A few different people asked me to post pics of my engine build so here they are. Â*This was my second 4G63 build. Â*I built a 2.4l 6 bolt for my Talon about a year and a half ago. Â*I don't claim to be a expert, infact it amazes me that i can build a engine that runs :lol:
Here's how the whole thing started out. Â*I was offered a awesome deal on a 03 EVO with a spun #1 rod bearing. Â*After scrambling to find a truck and trailer the car came home on July 28th.
http://www.socalevo.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10991/normal_S4300177.jpg
Engine out on the 30th. Â*Block to the machine shop on the 31st. Â*Notice the dirt. Â*The car had been sitting in a machine shed since Feb 05.
The ugly, one piece crank and rod bearing {thumbdwn}
http://www.socalevo.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10991/normal_S4300322.jpg
http://www.socalevo.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10991/normal_EVO2.jpg
While I was waiting on parts decided to clean out the engine bay while there was no engine/trans in the way. Â*I covered all the hoses and pipes with plastic bags to keep water from getting where it shouldn't be:cool:
http://www.socalevo.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10991/normal_S4300197.jpg
Decided to go with a stroker, if I have to rebuild a engine might as well have some fun :D Â* Parts started showing up by Aug 2nd.
http://www.socalevo.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10991/S4300190.jpg
Block back from the machine shop on the 3rd. Â*The bores were in pretty good shape so i had the block decked, honed and hot tanked. Â*
First thing to do, give the block a bath. Â*I used foaming engine bay cleaner and simple green along with a assortment of brushes. Â*After i cleaned the block i wiped it down with clean motor oil to prevent rust, and covered it with a bag when i wasn't working on it.
http://www.socalevo.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10991/normal_S4300198.jpg
Clean block and all parts. Â*Every things ready to go. Â*Wiseco 8.5:1 2.3L pistons, Eagle rods, New mitsu 2.4L crank, Mitsu Engine Gasket kit, ACl bearings, and ARp head studs. Â*Before starting I numbered all pistons and rods 1-4 so i knew what went where and to keep all my measurements strait. Â*I also wrote the cylinder numbers on top of the block to eliminate and possibility of error.
http://www.socalevo.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10991/normal_S4300205.jpg
http://www.socalevo.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10991/normal_S4300216.jpg
I wanted to measure all clearances. Â*however I'm too cheap to buy a proper bore gauge (I'm a DSM'r), so I became quite good at using a snap gauge. Â*I took at least 3 measurements of every thing and averaged them out. Â*I also used plasti gauge, but I'll show that later. Â*Before i measured all clearances i cleaned the surfaces to be measured with brake cleaner and clan rag.
Measuring bore with snap gauge.
http://www.socalevo.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10991/normal_S4300246.jpg
Taking measurement from snap gauge with micrometer (I'm actually measuring a snap gauge used for the crank main bore, but its the same idea).
http://www.socalevo.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10991/normal_S4300218.jpg
Measuring the piston Diameter with the mic. Â*This pic is of a piston rod combo because I forgot to take a pic before I assembled the pistons and rods. :updown: Â* Difference between the 2 measurements is the piston to wall clearance. Â*I had numbers of .0020".
http://www.socalevo.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10991/normal_S4300247.jpg
Next I bolted the crank cradle to the block and torqued to spec. Â*So I could measure the crank main bores in the same way, as the cylinder bores.
http://www.socalevo.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10991/normal_S4300217.jpg
To measure the main and rod bearings i used a ball bearing and a small piece of fuel line attached to the mic so that i could get a true reading of the bearing thickness. Â*With out the ball bearing the curve of the bearing gives a inaccurate reading, as the mic has a flat end that is unable to sit on the bearings curved surface. Â*o get the total thickness of the bearings I multiplied the thickness by 2 since it sits on both sides of the crank.
http://www.socalevo.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10991/normal_S4300323.jpg
Measuring the crank main journals. Â*The difference between the main bore and the bearing thickness X2 plus the main journals is the main bearing clearance. Â*I got numbers rite around .0016"
http://www.socalevo.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10991/normal_S4300327.jpg
Since i wanted to plasti gauge the bearing clearances as well I removed the main bearing cradle and installed main bearings (after cleaning them), in both the block and the cradle. Â*I then re-installed the crank. Â*I put a piece of plasti gauge on the top of each main journal. Â*Then re-installed the main cradle and bearings, and torqued the main bolts to spec. Â*This compresses the plasti gauge between the crank and bearings. Â*Once all the bolts have been torqued to spec I removed them, and the cradle. Â*The piece of plasti gauge is now a smashed piece of wax stuck to the crank and bearing. Â*Using the supplied measuring table with the plasti gauge I measured the clearance to get .002-.003" on all 5 bearings. Â*This is pretty close to what i got with the snap gauge and mic, as well as what I wanted, so I was happy with that. :) Â* After i was done with this I cleaned the plasti gauge off the crank and bearings with WD40 and a rag.
Bearings installed in block.
http://www.socalevo.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10991/normal_S4300222.jpg
Cradle bolted down with plasti gauge.
http://www.socalevo.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10991/normal_S4300224.jpg
What it looks like after I removed the cradle and top bearings.
http://www.socalevo.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10991/normal_S4300225.jpg
Measuring the plasti gauge.
http://www.socalevo.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10991/normal_S4300226.jpg
Next i installed the crank into the block, but in hind sight I should have measured the rod to crank clearances first. Â*It would have been much easier to do with the crank out of the block. Â*I measured the rod bearing clearances much the same as the mains.
After bolting the rod caps on and torquing to spec I measured the bore diameter with the snap gauge, just like the main bores. Â*Then i measured the bearing thickness the same way as the main bearings. Â*I found my clearances just like the mains. Â*Rod race diameter minus bearing thickness X 2 + rod journal diameter. Â*My clearances were all about .0020", what I wanted :)
http://www.socalevo.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10991/normal_S4300323.jpg
Measuring the rod journals, just like the mains.
http://www.socalevo.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10991/normal_S4300325.jpg
Just like the mains I plasti gauged the rod bearings. Â*Install the clean bearings in the rod and rod cap. Â*Bolt them to the crank with a piece of plasti gauge and torque to spec. Â*All of them showed .0020" with the plasti gauge, so I was satisfied.
http://www.socalevo.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10991/normal_S4300242.jpg
Something the got me all worked up just before i started the build was Eagle has a sticker on the inside of the rod box that says their rods are to be used with 6 bolt (89-92) rod bearings. Â*Well by the time I saw this I had already ordered all my parts and I ordered 7 bolt rod bearings, I figured i was building a 7 bolt engine with 7 bolt bearings. Â*So when I noticed this sticker I called all the local parts stores looking for 6 bolt bearings. Â*NAPA got me Cleviete 77 6 bolt bearings by the next morning. Â*After all the calling around and worrying I had the wrong bearings, it turn out the 7 bolt bearings work just fine. Â*The 6 bolt bearings are 23.5mm wide vs. 7 bolts 21.1mm. Â*The thickness are the same. Â*Since i was building this engine due to a spun rod bearing I was happy about the extra 2.4mm of surface area offered by the 6 bolt bearings. Â*However the 6 bolt bearings didn't fit in the rods {thumbdwn} . Â*The tang is too wide for the slot in the rod, and its on the edge of the bearing, which causes the bearing to sit off center in the rod. Â*It was recommended by another member on here to file the tang down to make it fit. Â*But I didn't feel real comfortable doing that, and i preferred to use the coated ACL bearings vs. the Cleveites. Â*So I ended up using the 7 bolt bearings I origionally had :updown: . Â*This pic shows the difference between the 6 bolt (left) and 7 bolt (right) bearings.
http://www.socalevo.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10991/normal_S4300239.jpg
Alright next up was filing the rings. Â*Each manufacture has different recommendations for ring gap. Â*After talking with a few different people I decided on .017 for a top gap and .020" for the bottom ring. Â*Wiseco's web site has a good bit of technical info about their rings and recommended gaps. Â*I filed the rings one cylinder at a time, keeping the rings with their respective piston in the box. Â*I filed the top rings first and the bottom second. Â*I installed the bottom ring on one piston to use as a gauge for pushing each ring the same distance into the bore and to keep them flat in the bore. Â*The ring sits on the top of the block and doesn't allow the piston to go any farther into the cylinder than the ring.