fastkevin
10-09-2008, 10:16 PM
Bumping around the "other" board last night, I came across a coupla dyno charts printed by a couple back-east tuners. Both were touting the power they were getting from their latest brainstorm... The first one I looked at, I noticed he had his smoothing set to fricken ZERO. I thought to myself, what a bull-shitter. I responded in his thread asking why he had it set to 0, and he responded that he does so, so he can better see if the car's got any running issues. Total bull-shit. The friggen line on 0 is so erratic, the whole run looks like the tires are hopping on the drums. You aren't gonna see diddly-poo. Not to mention that this particular run was a power run, not a diagnostic run, so the operator wasn't looking for any problems with the car. His mission was to simply document what ever gains this particular mod gave.
The next one I came across was from IMO, one of the top two (reputation anyway) tuners back east (mid-west O0). Same thing, but although his was set a little higher, it was still only set on 3. Once again I asked in the thread why he didn't have it set to 5, and I haven't seen a response yet. This one was a little more funny, because although the post gave the impression that time and effort were the basis for the gain, the max run was only #4. If you know dyno's, you know that you get a cold vehicle on it, get it warm, start your runs, and it'll show you the peak, right about the 4th one. You won't have an accurate base to tune off of within the first 3 runs, so to me it looks like they simply hooked up a car, and did runs until it stopped building power. I don't see how any tuning went on in that session.
To my original point: If (once again) you know DJ dynos, you know that 5 is the smoothest, and therefore the most accurate setting. The erratic bouncing all-around of the plot on the lower setting, simply gives you a false peak, which in the case of a 300hp vehicle, could be 10hp more. I dunno, as I only test bikes on mine, but with a 170hp motorcycle, a lower smoothing setting can show 5hp+ higher than it actually is. The "bouncing around" could be the same no matter how much power you're dealing with, so it'd be off by only 5hp or so no matter what, but if you're setting your smoothing low on purpose, it's a freaking lie no matter how much it's off by.
I'd be interested in what the tuners who use DJ dyno's on this board have to say about it. Maybe I'm missing something?
The next one I came across was from IMO, one of the top two (reputation anyway) tuners back east (mid-west O0). Same thing, but although his was set a little higher, it was still only set on 3. Once again I asked in the thread why he didn't have it set to 5, and I haven't seen a response yet. This one was a little more funny, because although the post gave the impression that time and effort were the basis for the gain, the max run was only #4. If you know dyno's, you know that you get a cold vehicle on it, get it warm, start your runs, and it'll show you the peak, right about the 4th one. You won't have an accurate base to tune off of within the first 3 runs, so to me it looks like they simply hooked up a car, and did runs until it stopped building power. I don't see how any tuning went on in that session.
To my original point: If (once again) you know DJ dynos, you know that 5 is the smoothest, and therefore the most accurate setting. The erratic bouncing all-around of the plot on the lower setting, simply gives you a false peak, which in the case of a 300hp vehicle, could be 10hp more. I dunno, as I only test bikes on mine, but with a 170hp motorcycle, a lower smoothing setting can show 5hp+ higher than it actually is. The "bouncing around" could be the same no matter how much power you're dealing with, so it'd be off by only 5hp or so no matter what, but if you're setting your smoothing low on purpose, it's a freaking lie no matter how much it's off by.
I'd be interested in what the tuners who use DJ dyno's on this board have to say about it. Maybe I'm missing something?