o-townFLA
05-23-2010, 10:10 PM
The main reason for this upgrade would be either to remove a broken or stripped wheel stud or to upgrade your wheel studs to extended studs to run spacers.
Their are several ways to due this but I went the shorter route, via "dont stop, hammer time"...
So out with the old and in with the new...
Parts to be installed are ARP extended wheel studs. Model #400-7717
and some aluminum featherlight RobiSpec 12x1.5 lug nuts
http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h54/o-townFLA/ARP%20Studs/DSC01037.jpg
The miscellaneous tools required are pictured below.
http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h54/o-townFLA/ARP%20Studs/DSC01038.jpg
I jacked my car up using the pinch weld and then placed a jack stand in the alternate jack point.
http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h54/o-townFLA/ARP%20Studs/DSC01039.jpg
Now zip off your wheel
http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h54/o-townFLA/ARP%20Studs/DSC01040.jpg
Old set up...
http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h54/o-townFLA/ARP%20Studs/DSC01041.jpg
Now remove your Caliper and hang it up which either way your like...
ghetto fabulous
http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h54/o-townFLA/ARP%20Studs/DSC01042.jpg
Â*
heres a HOW-TO on front rotor/caliper removal ---> http://forums.evolutionm.net/evo-how-tos-installations/395537-how-install-front-rotors.html
Caliper bolts to be removed
http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h54/o-townFLA/EBC%20rotors/CIMG1652.jpg
Once the caliper and rotor are removed you can now get to work. Pay particular attention in the orientation of the spindle. You must have it this way for the studs to be removed.
http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h54/o-townFLA/ARP%20Studs/DSC01046.jpg
With both wheels elevated it is relatively easy to remove one stud and then spin the spindle for the next stud.
With all the studs removed you can now place the new ones in.
I placed spacers that were a larger inner diameter than the studs and a M12 nut/lug to pull the new stud in. As you can see I used some lubricant to ease the operation
http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h54/o-townFLA/ARP%20Studs/DSC01047.jpg
NOTE: I did not use a jack stand on the non-working side. Reason being is that the spindle will continuously spin when trying to tighten/pull the studs in if both wheels are elevated. What I first would do is knock out all the old studs with both wheels elevated. Once the old studs were all removed and the new studs installed, I would lower the non-working side just enough for the tire to give traction. I would then tighten/pull the stud in.
New set up w/ anti-seize on the threads
http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h54/o-townFLA/ARP%20Studs/DSC01048.jpg
:mitsu:
Their are several ways to due this but I went the shorter route, via "dont stop, hammer time"...
So out with the old and in with the new...
Parts to be installed are ARP extended wheel studs. Model #400-7717
and some aluminum featherlight RobiSpec 12x1.5 lug nuts
http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h54/o-townFLA/ARP%20Studs/DSC01037.jpg
The miscellaneous tools required are pictured below.
http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h54/o-townFLA/ARP%20Studs/DSC01038.jpg
I jacked my car up using the pinch weld and then placed a jack stand in the alternate jack point.
http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h54/o-townFLA/ARP%20Studs/DSC01039.jpg
Now zip off your wheel
http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h54/o-townFLA/ARP%20Studs/DSC01040.jpg
Old set up...
http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h54/o-townFLA/ARP%20Studs/DSC01041.jpg
Now remove your Caliper and hang it up which either way your like...
ghetto fabulous
http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h54/o-townFLA/ARP%20Studs/DSC01042.jpg
Â*
heres a HOW-TO on front rotor/caliper removal ---> http://forums.evolutionm.net/evo-how-tos-installations/395537-how-install-front-rotors.html
Caliper bolts to be removed
http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h54/o-townFLA/EBC%20rotors/CIMG1652.jpg
Once the caliper and rotor are removed you can now get to work. Pay particular attention in the orientation of the spindle. You must have it this way for the studs to be removed.
http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h54/o-townFLA/ARP%20Studs/DSC01046.jpg
With both wheels elevated it is relatively easy to remove one stud and then spin the spindle for the next stud.
With all the studs removed you can now place the new ones in.
I placed spacers that were a larger inner diameter than the studs and a M12 nut/lug to pull the new stud in. As you can see I used some lubricant to ease the operation
http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h54/o-townFLA/ARP%20Studs/DSC01047.jpg
NOTE: I did not use a jack stand on the non-working side. Reason being is that the spindle will continuously spin when trying to tighten/pull the studs in if both wheels are elevated. What I first would do is knock out all the old studs with both wheels elevated. Once the old studs were all removed and the new studs installed, I would lower the non-working side just enough for the tire to give traction. I would then tighten/pull the stud in.
New set up w/ anti-seize on the threads
http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h54/o-townFLA/ARP%20Studs/DSC01048.jpg
:mitsu: