Rough gear changes..

[luisMR2105]

wats up guys, i just recently got my 2012 X gsr and sometimes when i shift into second or third it feels rough?? ive done some research and they say its normal. but i figured it wouldnt hurt to ask here on the forums. thanks guys.

[Boosted]

how many miles on your car?

[DTunedEvoX]

Video of said ROUGH shift? The shifting of the gear or when you disengage the clutch? I would say a MAJORITY of people who come from a FWD or RWD car then to an AWD disengage the clutch way to quickly - locks up the diffs and makes the shift - ROUGH ...

Smooth is fast!

[luisMR2105]

i have about 500 miles on it. and it happens when i shift into 2nd and sometimes i feel it when i shift into 3rd. but it happens very so often. when im cruising i usually shift around 3k rpms. am i shifting at to low of rpms? i read that it usually goes away after i put more miles on it.

[fshizl]

happens to me as well. I have 1600 miles on my 2012. As for what you said dtunedevox, I know what you mean. It happened to me for the first couple hundred miles. Now I'm driving the car all smooth. I was told that the rough gear engagement will disappear once its completely broken in.

[popdakebin]

not for me =/

[rcantuc]

i believe you're describing being notchy not rough like it feels like grinding into the gears.

mine did that from 7 miles to 860 miles.

what helped a lot was removing the clutch pill restrictor in the slave cylinder.

some also change the tranny fluid which supposedly helps.

[frankie_13]

I got 2011 and it felt notchy mostly 2nd gear to 3rd. I'm at 5,000 now and it seem like its going away.

[XKalibur84]

Same thing is happening to me. I got a 2010 GSR at almost 25k miles. I don't know if "notchy" is the right word but if it is, so be it, but I like to describe it more as "crunchy". I get the crunchiness going into 2nd gear but going into 3rd is where it's worse. I can hear the crunch inside my car and when I have the windows down and have something close enough to bounce the sound back to me, I can hear the noise outside as well. About 8k miles back, my 4th gear started getting a tiny bit notchy, too, but it's no where near what it's like on my 3rd or even 2nd gear.

[BoostFrenzy]

I was told that the rough gear engagement will disappear once its completely broken in.


Not true at all.

I have just about 16K on mine now and I've done a few things to improve it, but it's still no where near as smooth as my 2g GSX was (So there goes that AWD theory someone had).

Next steps for me are engine mounts (Because my car shifts smoother at higher load then cruising around), clutch and flywheel and then a full transmission rebuild.

If it doesn't feel right then, I don't know what we can do.

[DTunedEvoX]

I'm at 25k miles and a few tranny oil changes ... Still crunchy ... You get used to it ...

[luisMR2105]

its true at higher rpms gears go in way smoother. i went to Mitsu and they said its normal. they said to just push it in gently when at lower rpms.

[fliped evo]

Just traded my wrx for a 2013 evo x yesterday 11/3/12, when taking my car home from the dealership,noticed hard to get into gear, gears: 1 2 3 and reverse,am probably going to return it back to service and let them check it out but most likiely say nothings wrong

[BoostFrenzy]

-Redline fluid change will get rid of the cold notch a little faster. Factory fluid takes forever to get into operating temps.

-Some under hood shifter bushings as well as an AMS gate selector bushing all PROPERLY lubricated help.

-Messing around with the shifter cable bracket helps a TINY bit.

Motor mounts are my next fix. From a friends car I had driven in, it felt better then mine with only a front motor mount (controls front to rear engine pitch). So I'm going to do all of them and see how that goes.

Another thing to note if you guys are on OEM or even an upgraded CMC, be sure to keep a good bleeding schedule. That will help make sure the CMC is getting all the fluid it can get with each pump.

If you have a Magnus setup (like me), be sure that the bypass port on the CMC is allowed to do it's job properly. This means getting to the slave and making sure it can be moved by hand. If it can not be moved by hand, then your master cylinder is not adjusted correctly.

Hope this helps anyone that goes through this post!

[Mike W]

Mitsu transmissions definitely get better and smoother with miles. Wait till at least 2500 miles to judge and dont force anything that it dont want to do. In the meantime I'd still go back and bitch while it is still new and fresh. Get it in writing that it sucked from the start so when and if it still sucks at 5k miles you have proof that it always was that way. It is someone's full time job to tell you that it is normal and to suck it up and deal with it.

This is why we never recommend short shifters. Stoopid Mitsu transmissions hardly shift decent slow let alone trying to make them shift faster.

Mike W

[HMatt]

I've noticed that the X's don't really need a short shifter. You can feel in the shifter that there is a TON of slop in it. If you don't believe me, put one in gear and move the stick from side to side and up and down. Some almost have a full inch of play!

Through a couple buddy's X's, we determined that if you get the torque solutions underhood bushings and shifter bushings (they are poly, so none of the solid aluminum clunk) and then the solid (aluminum) shifter base bushings, you get a very nice solid shift with a good feel. If you need more, you can go short shifter from there, but you really don't need it.

As for the fluid, redline MT-85!

[samul said]

Hrmm...so I wasn't the only one thinking the same with the rough gear changes...

[HMatt]

Hrmm...so I wasn't the only one thinking the same with the rough gear changes...


DIE NECRO BUMPER!