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View Full Version : Clutch Job, Now Not Going into Gear. Help !



silverevo05
12-10-2013, 08:50 AM
I just had an OEM clutch, PP, TOB and ACT Monoloc placed into my car last night

First off the car was running fine before all this (the car only has 24k on it & an ever so slight slip) though I thought I should spend some money and change out all the clutch parts, also driveline fluids this week & the timing belts etc next week.

After 10 hours work, I went into the car to leave and while the car was on, it would not engage into any gear. I went to get the employees and notified them. They advised me to drive it to wear it in, though I could hardly go into reverse or first. Engine off it will row through the gears though is notchy

Once the car gets moving it goes into gears ok, though I feel a slight vibration through the clutch that was not there before. When at stop then going to first or reverse it will not go in without heavy effort. When I came home there was a smell though I don't remember it or this problem when I had the work done at the dealership on my previous evo.

I don't want to ruin sychros as the car was running pretty solid. They changed the bracket holding the bushings from one evo to mine, though that didnt seem to do anything. He also adjusted the clutch pedal.

One of the employees drove it in and concurred that it drove fine prior to the clutch job

Please advise as to what the problem might be as this is all I am looking for.

I found this thread but I don't know how accurate it might be

http://forums.evolutionm.net/evo-engine-turbo-drivetrain/608465-installed-new-clutch-car-wont-go-into-gear-help.html

This thread is disconcerting as it specifically says dont force it into gear (which I was told to wear it in) as it will ruin synchros

http://www.jackstransmissions.com/pages/clutch-drag-kills-synchros

@work
12-10-2013, 08:54 AM
Who did the work??

HMatt
12-10-2013, 09:23 AM
Yes, who did the work?

It sounds like it isn't fully disengaging. I suggest adjusting the pedal and bleeding it. Make sure you fill the reservoir all the way up into the filler neck before bleeding. The damn reservoir has a very sneaky way of looking full when it isn't.

Another possibility is the tob isn't fully seated into the monoloc. Unlikely since it probably would have popped out by now, but possible. You can check that by getting under the car and looking through the inspection hole with a flashlight. If the TOB is not right up against the monoloc, stick a screwdriver in there and push the tob into the monoloc until it clicks in.

Side note, if you weren't having any problems with the clutch, why would you change it? Even still, why would you put a stock clutch back in it and not get something bigger while you were in there?

silverevo05
12-10-2013, 09:47 AM
^ thanks for the info. I will pass the information

I wanted OEM due to the fact that it should accompany no issues and at the power level that I am looking for it should be a non issue with the OEM Clutch. As far as I was advised it was bleed, filled up to the neck, and clutch pedal seems to have been adjusted.

I changed it due to it having a slight slip and since I had funds available. I would rather have done this now than needed it later when I might not have the funds.

Black Evo Beauty
12-10-2013, 08:46 PM
It's called never ever go to that shop again

Massimo Power
12-10-2013, 09:58 PM
We did the install on this particular car. It was an OEM Exedy Clutch disk and Pressure plate.

Items we have done so far:

We've Adjusted the clutch for more stroke. No help

Slave was bled in case for any reason there was air in the system. No help

The Shift Selector Bracket was changed in case the one on the car was damaged for any reason during install. No help.

Only issue we had during install was the Monoloc collar, it was very difficult to clip the release bearing into it. Being the way it is designed this apparently is the norm. This would be our first successful install of the monoloc collar considering that another customer brought us one to do with his Competition clutch and it did not seat at all. According to ACT the monoloc will not work with some clutches due to certain tolerances.

Considering what we already did for troubleshooting, my current guess is one of two. Either the monoloc and bearing are not seated correctly (which i have personally offered to check and re-seat if needed.) Or the clutch is just suffering from clutch drag due to a very slight thickness of disk and pressure plate for which can be fixed either by replacing the clutch with warranty or letting the clutch bed in naturally through break in. Now of course with this comes the issue of forcing it into gears which you must not do. I have offered the temporary solution of pressing the clutch in and selecting 3rd or 4th gear to stop the clutch drag, then continue to 1st to begin moving.

We will be looking the car over very soon and will post results as to what the issue is.

KT Motoring
12-10-2013, 10:27 PM
We had an issue with an ACT clutch where the ring sleeve on the pressure plate/clutch cover broke after the Evo was driven without issue for several hundred miles. This particular car also had a Monoloc. We had done other clutches with Monolocs but this was the first time we had an issue. The clutch cover was sent out to ACT for warranty inspection.

Massimo Power
12-10-2013, 11:01 PM
^ Thanks for the input, i doubt that may be the issue with this particular case but we will definitely take a look at that.

kambodianboi
12-10-2013, 11:32 PM
I guess the monoloc is causing more problems than it was original suppose to solve.

Hopefully you guys get it resolved.

Massimo Power
12-10-2013, 11:45 PM
^its not the problem. Its just one of many theories at this point.

HMatt
12-11-2013, 05:42 AM
I just installed a monoloc with my clutch. It was more difficult to get the TOB clipped in than with the stock clip. It wasn't anything a large screwdriver couldn't handle though. Of course, this is on an ACT 3200. It stands to reason that the ACT monoloc would work great on an ACT clutch.

drifthobo
12-11-2013, 03:03 PM
I have the same problem. You have to adjust your clutch pedal. It's not fully disengaged, so adjust it more towards the driver

HMatt
12-11-2013, 03:35 PM
^If Massimo said he adjusted it, then he did it.

drifthobo
12-12-2013, 01:12 PM
^Not saying he didn't. I trust Mauricio

drifthobo
12-12-2013, 02:04 PM
Woops double post

one4
12-13-2013, 02:29 AM
I had this issue with my 9 a few years back after a new clutch was installed. It took almost 2000 miles to feel really smooth. 24k is super early to replace a clutch unless u beat the crap out of it or dont know how to drive a stick properly. It shouldnt be slipping at that mileage. If it isnt grinding when u shift just keep driving it. It should smooth itself during the break in process. Like mentioned... the monoloc is prob causing your issues honestly. Why would you use it on a stock clutch anyways?

Black Evo Beauty
12-17-2013, 03:49 PM
Take it back have them fix the problem

Mister
12-17-2013, 04:03 PM
Sounds like the Monoloc is causing the TOB to not fully engage or disengage.
Nothing wrong with the slave cylinder?

HMatt
12-18-2013, 05:34 AM
Sounds like the Monoloc is causing the TOB to not fully engage or disengage.
Nothing wrong with the slave cylinder?

If that's the case, it would be causing it not to disengage properly. I'm not sure how that's possible though unless it's not fully seated in the ring... But if it wasn't, it would pop out. Simple solution is to look into the inspection hole with a flashlight and physically watch the TOB move. If is stays seated fully, then the issue lies with the clutch itself.

Massimo probably tried this, but if the clutch rod is fully extended on the 8/9, you can adjust the upper clutch pedal stop a little to allow for more pedal travel. I know this works with the bigger clutches. I've never heard of anyone having to do it on a stock clutch; but, it could be worth a shot.

OR... as Mister said, your slave or master could need replacement.

one4
12-25-2013, 12:54 AM
So the same thread was posted on evo m... this guy doesnt want help. Mauricio has gone out of his way to help out and try to fix the "issue"... which I personally feel is a break in process, or the monoloc sucks/isnt compatible with the oem clutch. Get rid of the unneeded monoloc and your problem will probably go away man. I very highly doubt it was an installation error and the issue lies within the product itself.

LakaiorDie
12-25-2013, 07:34 AM
How many other forums you post this shit on?

Your a retard for going all oem with a ACT monoloc in the first place. :doh:

gr8dc2b
12-25-2013, 09:31 AM
Your a retard for going all oem with a ACT monoloc in the first place. :doh:

Wow Daniel, that is pretty harsh, but you know, you are really right on this one...in this case, either OEM all or Aftermarket Performance upgrade all or NOT...if OEM/ Aftermarket Performance guess so/ so-so, then SQUISH, JUST LIKE GRAPE!!! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y3lQSxNdr3c

LakaiorDie
12-25-2013, 11:00 AM
Wow Daniel, that is pretty harsh, but you know, you are really right on this one...in this case, either OEM all or Aftermarket Performance upgrade all or NOT...if OEM/ Aftermarket Performance guess so/ so-so, then SQUISH, JUST LIKE GRAPE!!! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y3lQSxNdr3c

lol it took me a few times to watch to get it. :2funny:

gr8dc2b
12-25-2013, 03:22 PM
lol it took me a few times to watch to get it. :2funny:

Lol Daniel:grin:

rl22
02-19-2014, 05:40 PM
no more clutch problems and trans shifts great. I'm sure silverevo05 will post the cause and correction.

Awd-Se
12-16-2014, 03:34 AM
Exact same situation with my clutch job except mine is act clutch/press.plate/flywheel.
!!Please post what fixed this issue for you!! I have literally tried ALL suggestions stated in this thread...no dice.
Frustrated beyond measure at this point.