WARNING ABOUT RPS CLUTCH...

[gt40]

I had a rps "max" clutch put in at 6800 miles. It was rated to "500 LBS" torque.

http://www.socalevo.net/forums/modul...view_photo.php

It is slipping. I have 14200 miles. So let's see, 7k- no drag racing, a handful of track days on my overbuilt evo and the clutch is done. Considering i am maybe tapping on 400 lbs of torque I am well within the target limits here.

This company came very highly recomended. They have been around for a while and been associated with some really serious cars. I even went out to their headquarters in chatsworth to see the operation.
4 months and 7k miles later the clutch is gone. It held fine and then in one day it started slipping. I went with this product because of their reputation and I thought I was getting a really hard core clutch to handle the 500 hp motor I am building. IT DID NOT.

I talked to JT at rpm and he said 8k is "satisfactory performance" for a "high performance" clutch like theirs and said I would get maybe another 3k out of it if I had retained my stock flywheel instead of going with a clutch master(fidanza) aluminum.

I AM SORRY BUT 7k IS TOO SOON FOR HOW THE CAR WAS DRIVEN, 400 + HP not withstanding...

JP spent a considerable amount of time explaining that aluminum flywheels are not going to work with that clutch. Neither will a chrome moly flywheel, according to him. I WISH somebody at RPS had told me this before i spent 1600 to put it in...

At least he did call me back.

Anyway he said "we will take care of you" so I will wait and see what exactly that means... I will still be out the serious labor in any case to take this thing out and replace it.

On a final note, I asked about their carbon/ carbon twin plates which were supposed to be out months ago and he said well, we are really busy so unless someone puts a deposit down... we will not be doing this right now. I said I would be willing to pay for a clutch that could handle it if they would build one but got a luke warm response, saying even if i gave him a check tomorrow it would be a month or so.

Anyway, not expecting them to do anything at this point as rps is "so busy" but thought I should at least warn you guys.

If you want a clutch you don't have to replace every 7k... you might want to look elsewhere.

[GokuSSJ4]

damn that sucks !! thats BS went they are rating a high performance clutch to last only that long . they should include that warning went purchasing their product. Who in their right mind wants to change the clutch every 7k miles . I figure it would last being abuse a lot more then that . Thats one thing about honda and acura , they make great oem parts . Had mine for a period over 2 years and drag race and canyon race with no problems . Even went drag racing was on slicks and not street tires . The reason i replace it was because of the huge increase of TQ and hp that i knew stock couldnt handle . But as far as bolt ons and cams , there was no problems . Only if mitsu and aftermarket companies could make such high qualities products ......

[gt40]

Who in therr right mine wants to change clutches every 7k

Good quote...

[rizalhoo]

gee...sorry to hear that bro,but man..every 7k change clutch? geee...thats like a 3 months drive for me. I bought my evo on 8/26/03 and now its 1/22/04 had collect 12,000 mileage on my evo

[Chris in SD]

I've tried a couple of different clutches in some of the guys' cars out here. The ACT felt REALLY strong, but since the guy just put it in, I can't say how long it would last. I also drove a modded car with the Exedy twin-disk (non-carbon/carbon) and it felt almost like stock, and with very little chatter. It started to grab only about an inch from the floor, so for racing, it would be awesome - just tap the clutch, make the shift. I am still lucky enough to be running my stock clutch at 16,000 miles, but when the time comes, I think I will use the Cusco twin carbon. From what I understand most of the breakage on the Cusco/Exedy clutches has been because people re-used the original pin (I am not sure which one). It was recommended to just buy a new pin from the dealer and that would solve the problem. Plus, I don't drag race either, so I should get a lot more out of it.

[GokuSSJ4]

[/quote]

Good quote...[/quote]

i edited my post , lol . either im trying to type to fast and also don't notice grammar .... :?

[ItsStockOfficer]

7k miles sounds about right to me. Pull it out. Lay a straight edge accross the face of it. Notice that it only touches on the outside edges. Thats your heat warp. Unless RPS has created new warp resistant metal alloy's, its a level playing field and thats what happens.