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Thread: ALL you need to know about brakes, lines pads

  1. #21

    Dot 5 Brake Fluid Vs. the Expensive stuff

    A little may come out, but not enough to be any trouble. Most of it will just be fluid from the bottom of the stock fitting. Just have a shop towel on hand. Fluid shouldn't come out by itself. It's like when you open the valve. Nothing will come out unless someone is stepping on the brakes.

  2. #22

    Dot 5 Brake Fluid Vs. the Expensive stuff

    When you guys bled your brakes did you leave the car running like mitsu recommends? I've heard other people leaving it on as well.

    - Rich

  3. #23

    Dot 5 Brake Fluid Vs. the Expensive stuff

    Quote Originally Posted by EVO_RPM
    When you guys bled your brakes did you leave the car running like mitsu recommends? I've heard other people leaving it on as well.

    - Rich
    I didn't

  4. #24

    Dot 5 Brake Fluid Vs. the Expensive stuff

    hmmm what is the significance of leaving the car on? and these speed bleeders look like my next mod!

  5. #25

    Dot 5 Brake Fluid Vs. the Expensive stuff

    so when you're stepping on the brake and fluid is coming out, do you just pour more into the resevoir in the engine bay? Sorry if this is way off base, but i've never bled brakes before. And can you bleed all the wheels and the clutch at the same time? or do you have to do one at a time?
    <br />[size=9px]There are only three sports: bullfighting, motor racing, and mountaineering; all the rest are merely games - Hemingway<br /><br />you&#039;ll get shorter stopping distances by slowing the fuck down - rammsteinmatt<br /><br />ay, there&#039;s the rub; That in that sleep of death what dreams may come.<br /><br />&quot;Sponsors&quot;: Yakima, K&amp;N, Speed Source, Bridgestone, S2K, Viper, WORKS, Motul, RRE,&nbsp; Samco, Ferodo, JDM, Kosei, APR, RallyArmor[/size]

  6. #26

    Dot 5 Brake Fluid Vs. the Expensive stuff

    One at a time. You also want to make sure that your fluid resovoir has plenty of fluid in it. You don't want to suck in any air

  7. #27

    Dot 5 Brake Fluid Vs. the Expensive stuff

    If your changing out the fluid bleed them in this order:

    1. Rear right inside piston
    2. Rear right outside piston
    3. Rear left inside piston
    4. Rear left outside piston
    5. Front right inside piston
    6. Front right outside piston
    7. Front left inside piston
    8. Front right outside piston
    9. Clutch

    I changed #4 should have said left.
    Fast not Furious

  8. #28

    Dot 5 Brake Fluid Vs. the Expensive stuff

    is that really necessary with the speed bleeders... cuz if anything they'll all just squirt fluid and not suck in air right?

  9. #29

    Dot 5 Brake Fluid Vs. the Expensive stuff

    Quote Originally Posted by trinydex
    is that really necessary with the speed bleeders... cuz if anything they'll all just squirt fluid and not suck in air right?
    If you want to use the least amount of new fluid to replace your existing fluid yes.
    Fast not Furious

  10. #30

    Dot 5 Brake Fluid Vs. the Expensive stuff

    well if you flush the system it would be the draining plus the same process... and you'd have to bleed again anyway and the bleeders would help. so why the ordering... is what i mean, to use up the least amount of fluid?

  11. #31

    Dot 5 Brake Fluid Vs. the Expensive stuff

    Quote Originally Posted by trinydex
    well if you flush the system it would be the draining plus the same process... and you'd have to bleed again anyway and the bleeders would help. so why the ordering... is what i mean, to use up the least amount of fluid?
    No use draining it. Just run the new fluid out the farthest chamber first (inside right rear). then go in the rest of the order from farthest to nearest. Or do what you want. The bleeders will help do it single handed but so would a power bleeder. I don't use anything since my daughter likes to help.

    If go with SRF you will want to conserve brake fluid.

    BTW, Super Autobacs has ATE super blue for around $11 for a liter. the only decent price in that place.
    Fast not Furious

  12. #32

    Dot 5 Brake Fluid Vs. the Expensive stuff

    uhm... don't you wanna drain the system befor eyou put in new stuff... cuz the old stuff might have took in water and may be teh not so performance based stuff that mitsu puts in stock?

    hindsight: NEVER DRAIN THE SYSTEM THE AIR GETS IN YOUR ABS SOLENOIDS AND TAKES MANY BRAKING CYCLES TO GET OUT.

  13. #33

    Dot 5 Brake Fluid Vs. the Expensive stuff

    the order is somewhat necessary because your trying to start furthest from master cylinder,i was un aware of doing the inner then the outer though

  14. #34

    Dot 5 Brake Fluid Vs. the Expensive stuff

    Quote Originally Posted by trinydex
    uhm... don't you wanna drain the system befor eyou put in new stuff... cuz the old stuff might have took in water and may be teh not so performance based stuff that mitsu puts in stock?
    If you flush the entire system it does the same thing. I switched to ATE Super Blue during my first flush because you can easily tell when the system is completely filled with new fluid (since it's a different color). ATE also makes a Yellow-dyed brake fluid that's otherwise the exact same fluid. Green = almost flushed. Solid color = flushed.

    Motul RBF600 is good stuff too.

  15. #35

    Dot 5 Brake Fluid Vs. the Expensive stuff

    Quote Originally Posted by erikgj
    If your changing out the fluid bleed them in this order:

    1. Rear right inside piston
    2. Rear right outside piston
    3. Rear left inside piston
    4. Rear right outside piston
    5. Front right inside piston
    6. Front right outside piston
    7. Front left inside piston
    8. Front right outside piston
    9. Clutch
    The wheel order you have suggested is not correct according to the service manual.


  16. #36

    Speedbleeders

    I just finished bleeding my brakes and was reminded just how well speedbleeders work. If you want to bleed your brakes or change brake fluid, these things make the job a lot easier.

    Basically, they act as a one way valve so 1 person brake bleeding is easy.

    To install, simply unthread the stock valve on the caliper and screw the new one on. To bleed, crack the valve by opening 1/2 turn and pump the brakes till fluid comes out. Good idea to put a hose on the nipple to direct the fluid into a bag or something so it doesn't spray the car.

    One person can bleed all four wheels in minutes. Jacking up the car and taking the wheels off takes more time than bleeding the brakes.

    You need 9 - 2 for each side of the caliper + 1 for clutch cylinder.

    Here is a link if you want to order with the correct part(part #SB1010S) :

    http://speedbleeder.zoovy.com/
    DON'T FORGET TO GET 9!
    Red 2003 Evo VIII:550whp/475lbs torque evo-&nbsp; www.mccomsey.net/evo

  17. #37

    Speedbleeders

    where is the clutch bleeder located??

  18. #38

    Speedbleeders

    Here ya go:



    Red 2003 Evo VIII:550whp/475lbs torque evo-&nbsp; www.mccomsey.net/evo

  19. #39

    Speedbleeders

    You can make you own speed bleeder that can be transferred to any car, any brake, etc. All you need is an epty 20 oz soda bottle, 2-3 feet of 3mm vacuum hose, and a metal coat hanger. Drill a hole in the cap of the soda bottle large enough for the hose to fit through. Form the hanger into a hook on one end and wrap the other end around the neck of the bottle. I leave a little hanging that I shape upward to hold the end of the hose. Fill the bottle 1/2 way with fresh fluid. SUBMERGE (very important) one end into the fluid, but leave about 1" or so from the bottom. The other end goes over the bleeder nipple. Use the hanger to hang the bottle from the suspension. Don't forget to fill your master cylinder with fresh fluid. If you are flushing the system, suck out the old fluid before you put the new suff in. Pump the pedal in nice smooth strokes, going all the way to the floor. Once all the air has purged from the hose (2 or 3 pumps) you will see that old fluid leaves the hose and settles on the bottom. When the pedal is released a very small amount is drawn in (you expect the same amount to be drawn back in, but no). Pump until the fluid coming out looks like the new fresh fluid you put in the master cylinder if you are flushing, or until the micro-bubbles subside. After a few uses the end may not fit tightly over the nipple any more, so simply cut off 1/2" and you have a fresh end! And remember to continually check and replenish that master clyinder! USed in conjunction with speed bleeders make it even easier. I like this because you can actually see if you got all the air out, and can clearly see when the fresh fluid has made it to the end of the line.
    _______________________________________<br />Jeremy Sosa<br />ASE/Mitsubishi Master Technician<br />www.CCMW.cc

  20. #40
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    Sportback Evolution

    ALL YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT maintaining brakes, lines, fluid

    where was that thread about how to adjust the brake light so that it fires up when you tap the pedal? thanks

    Sportback Evolution MR


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