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Thread: ALL you need to know about brakes, lines pads

  1. #141

    Re: Help with brakes, please!!!

    and make sure to get some brake cleaner and DOUSE that caliper or there won't be any paint on it tomorrow...
    <br />[size=9px]There are only three sports: bullfighting, motor racing, and mountaineering; all the rest are merely games - Hemingway<br /><br />you&#039;ll get shorter stopping distances by slowing the fuck down - rammsteinmatt<br /><br />ay, there&#039;s the rub; That in that sleep of death what dreams may come.<br /><br />&quot;Sponsors&quot;: Yakima, K&amp;N, Speed Source, Bridgestone, S2K, Viper, WORKS, Motul, RRE,&nbsp; Samco, Ferodo, JDM, Kosei, APR, RallyArmor[/size]

  2. #142

    Re: Bleeding order MODS, sticky this please...

    Quote Originally Posted by ovenmit331
    found this at http://www.joe250.com/cars/evo/evobr...dingorder1.JPG

    Bleed order

    1. Passenger's side rear outside nipple
    2. Passenger's side rear inside nipple
    3. Driver's side front outside nipple
    4. Driver's side front inside nipple
    5. Driver's side rear outside nipple
    6. Driver's side rear inside nipple
    7. Passenger's side front outside nipple
    8. Passenger's side front inside nipple


    Never the outside nipple first, as you are trapping/mixing contaminated fluid behind it! Just cause it is on the etardnet does _not_ make it correct.

    John Mueller www.muellerized.com
    Expert service and suspension work, including insurance repairs professional competition driver coaching and chassis development, our engines and chassis have won in SCCA/NASA/IMSA/FIA road racing, SCORE Off Road, SCCA ProRally Shock dyno service, MIG/TIG welding, tube bending/fabrication, race engine configuration
    30 years experience

  3. #143

    Re: Bleeding order MODS, sticky this please...

    i
    ts the same sequence according to the service manual
    www.speedelement.com<br />www.500whp.com<br />www.weaksauce.org<br />

  4. #144

    Re: Bleeding order MODS, sticky this please...

    i just read the service manual too, says to start with the outside nipple

  5. #145

    Re: Bleeding order MODS, sticky this please...

    Quote Originally Posted by Blaze
    Quote Originally Posted by gt40
    John,

    We don't bitch slap here.

    Oven,

    This is a common question. Thanks very much for taking the initiative to post up the info.
    Please confirm the correct order and site your source, then we'll sticky this.

    Blaze
    YES WE DO AS YOU NEED TO BE
    not likely
    Clearly your moderator title causes you to ignore the relationship between air bubbles and gravity. How does the intardnet make the bridge passages on the calipers anywhere but on the _bottom_ of the caliper? The fluid enters the caliper in the center, then exits the inside of the caliper thru the bridge tube towards the outer bleed screw that you just opened, trapping contaminated fluid in the top part of the caliper below the inner bleed screw. What happens to the trapped fluid above the caliper fluid inlet? It gets mixed with the 'new' fluid as it gets pushed towards the outer bleed screw, vastly reducing the heat rejection potential of the brake fluid.

    Does the fluid magically renew itself cause someone posted BS on a website?

    The reality is no, as the caliper is not properly bled, and the pedal travel at operating temperature will continue to be mushy no matter how much fluid you introduce into the system. The true test is the braking system's ability to reject heat, which using the moderator approved method will be far less than the properly bled braking system. I drive more different Evos than most people in this country, and the vast majority of the cars I personally drive have brakes that don't work well at all, because the brake fluid has been overheated and improperly bled. My Evos stop well enough to have the best finishing record in sanctioned road racing in the USA, and I am speaking from my direct hands on experience, not a cut and paste off of a random website, or a regurgitation of the procedure in the factory service manual that led to the spongy brake pedal in the first place.

    trinydex:



    here's mueller's bleeding order. remember you can always bleed both at once with my catch can how-to.
    John Mueller www.muellerized.com
    Expert service and suspension work, including insurance repairs professional competition driver coaching and chassis development, our engines and chassis have won in SCCA/NASA/IMSA/FIA road racing, SCORE Off Road, SCCA ProRally Shock dyno service, MIG/TIG welding, tube bending/fabrication, race engine configuration
    30 years experience

  6. #146

    Re: Bleeding order MODS, sticky this please...

    if you boil your brakes in a track day should you also bleed the clutch line?

    what about just installed new brake lines? should that also require a clutch line bleed?

    does it matter if you bleed the clutch line before or after the brakes?

    thanks

    trinydex: answer in short, no

  7. #147

    Stainless Steel Brake Lines (with P/Ns)

    Why use stainless steel brake lines?
    There are some advantages to using stainless steel brake lines; one is reduced volumetric
    expansion. Overtime and under continuous use, OEM rubber lines can swell and expand,
    exposing the driver to brake fade. The rubber cover is also vulnerable to attacks from the
    ozone layer (rubber deteriorates and causes a failure). In extreme applications (Auto X,
    racing, hard riving) rubber hoses might susceptible to debris, thus causing failure.
    Stainless steel hoses give some protection from these issues.
    In some applications, where you have modified your vehicle (lowered, raised, or changed
    some major part, I.E. calipers) your only option is have custom lines made for your
    application. Also, in some cases it is hard to obtain OEM style rubber lines for some
    older applications.







    GoodridgeÂ* Â*

    Some of the features of these high performance hoses include small internal diameter, special hose design for flexibility, special hose design for extra strength, stainless steel braiding which helps to dissipate any heat better than the standard rubber. All these features go to give between 10 to 25% more braking efficiency.
    Our suppliers Goodridge are a company that's concentrating on slowing things down…..
    Goodridge brake hoses, originally developed for Motor Racing, feature stainless steel braided hose, which doesn't expand like rubber. The result? Better, more responsive braking and reduced stopping distances. As used by leading WRC and F1 teams, Carl Fogarty's Superbike team, and Steve Peat, 2002 world downhill mountain bike champion. Kits available for every make and model of car, motorcycle or mountain bike, so whatever you ride, we can stop you more quickly.
    Goodridge - the World's leading manufacturer of high performance fluid transfer systems, driving the top racecars, performance road cars and motorcycles across the globe. Goodridge products cover all fluid transfer needs including hydraulic Brake and Clutch lines, and lightweight hoses for Fuel, Oil Cooler, Gearbox and Water systems.
    K300 stock an extensive range of Goodridge adapters in a range of thread types, and a complementary range of coolers, firesleeves and quick disconnect couplings. Goodridge products cover all fluid transfer needs including hydraulic Brake and Clutch lines, and lightweight hoses for Fuel, Oil Cooler, Gearbox and Water systems.
    All Goodridge Car Brakeline kits now come supplied with a clear coated hose as standard.



    Stoptech



    StopTech stainless steel brake lines improve pedal feel and reduce the amount of time between applied pedal pressure and actual deceleration by preventing expansion, which stock rubber flex lines allow. This provides a quicker pedal response, and allows the driver to maintain consistent brake pressure and precision brake modulation. StopTech brake lines consist of a Teflon® inner line that is covered with a layer of stainless steel woven braid. The Teflon tube is very resistant to expansion under pressure and will not degrade from exposure to brake fluid. The stainless steel braid provides support for the Teflon and the weave is extremely durable against incidental impact and abrasion. StopTech brake lines feature a Clear Abrasion Resistant Cover for maximum protection against chaffing. All StopTech Stainless Steel Brake Lines are DOT (United States Department of Transportation) compliant and 100% tested to a pressure of 4500 psi.

    Stage 2 Upgrade (Rotors/Pads/lines/fluids) P/N


    86-622-01364
    SLOTTED (Ferodo DS2500 Pads) $1,049.00


    Stainless Steel Braided Lines P/N
    85-622-4500
    FRONT $85.00

    85-622-5500
    REAR $81.00




  8. #148

    Re: Brake light staying on

    My rear pads wore out first as well. What I found out is that if you do a lot of moderate driving the rears go first on a AWD car. Couldn't tell you why though. Very common/ normal.

    trinydex: answer in short, the rear brakes engage first under very light brake application, the fronts don't engage on light application. so drag and go traffic like we have in socal makes the brakes in the rear wear faster.
    &quot; A fry short of a Happy Meal&quot;

  9. #149

    Re: Brake light staying on

    The e-brake does not use the calipers and the pads, it is an internal brake in the rear hub used to stop the rear rotors.Â* If you see the e-brake light stay on, you should bring it in to a shop to have it checked.

  10. #150

    Re: Brake light staying on

    Keep in mind the Brake light on the dash is triggered by two things. If the handbrake isn't all the way down the light is on, and in your case, if the brake reservoir level is low, the light comes on. Usually it starts coming on intermittently when cornering when the fluid gets low but isn't real low, then eventually it stays on.

    Now the main reason the fluid level is low isn't because it is leaking, but because the pads have worn down to the point where more fluid is needed in the calipers to offset the reduced pad thickness.

    So your solution is two-fold, top off the fluid in the reservoir so the light goes off for now, and then replace the worn pads once you figure out which end of the car it is. If you top off the reservoir first and then put in new pads, it may overflow due to pushing the fluid back into the reservoir. The best option is to bleed the brakes when you do a pad change, since it most likely needs it anyway.
    All da cars are Nekkid!Â*&nbsp; www.dsmporn.com<br /><br /><br />www.roadraceengineering.com

  11. #151

    Re: Brake light staying on

    Quote Originally Posted by trinydex
    how low were your pads or did you have your pads in, was the resevoir cap off? all those things would explain it. but it should because if you move to a big brake kit in the back you only lose function of the shoe and not the entire ebrake all together. unless i'm mistaken....
    trinydex, pads had about 50% left, pads were in the caliper, reservoir cap on. I don't see how you would lose the function of the e-brake shoe if you change to a big brake kit tho, the shoe would still touch the inside of the rotor.

    05WickedWhitey, check your brake reservoir level as Dr. Gray (Blak94GSX) suggested.Â* If the level is low and there is no leak then just replace your pads, top off or bleed your brakes.Â* If the level is not low and the e-brake light stays on they you have some e-brake issue.

  12. #152

    Re: Bleeding order MODS, sticky this please...

    inside nipples first!

    was also told by the fine folks at RRE i could bleed both nipples at the same time!

  13. #153

    Re: ALL you need to know about brakes, lines pads

    Quote Originally Posted by ReHeat
    The e-brake does not use the calipers and the pads, it is an internal brake in the rear hub used to stop the rear rotors. If you see the e-brake light stay on, you should bring it in to a shop to have it checked.
    i stand corrected ^ is right. it's an entire assembly that bolts onto the inside of the caliper. kits like stoptech retain the ebrake IF they put a rotor in that is large enough to house the ebrake assembly.

    these kits however retain the ebrake wtih an aluminum friction surface, so it increases the hat wear which is bad if you're drifting, fine if you're parking.

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