then this will apply to the RAs?
then this will apply to the RAs?
Banking establishments are more dangerous than standing armies.
Is it true there is a new relay (blue) that works better than the green one?
What's the difference if you already have the green one?
and lastly who has one? (mitsubishiparts.net is on backorder)
part# is 8627A024
repost
We have a few of these in stock here at the shop. Let us know if anyone needs one as they go fast.
Alfred
I just wanted to comment to say nice work!!
scm has relays in stock
This is only for the 08 correct? the problem was fixed in the 2010's??
2010s still regularly come through with stinky old black relays. We put a new (blue) relay in all the Xs and RalliArts we tune for free.
Mike W
I noticed that the cost of the blue ones were less than half the price of the green ones from the dealer! Wonder why that is...
ETS UICP, Cosworth drop-in, Stop-Tech, RRE 3 port, RRE sideways catback-stealth with 4 chrome tips, Swift springs, SolarGard, Mynes dampers, Blue f.p. relay. 315 whp, 319 wtq by Mike W.
exact location of said relay?Originally Posted by Mike W
All the black, blue and green relays look like what should be a $5 part. I was wondering not why it was half the price, I was wondering why they were double and quadruple price Maybe the green relay company has a brother-in-law that works in the parts procurement dept @ MMC and made a sweet deal.
As far as location, it is in Naji's diagram on the first post of this thread. Unless you mean their location here at the shop,... they are on the shelf next to the MBCs right by the Zeitronix stuff in the parts room.
Mike W
I switched all my relays to green to match my Takatas.
The following applies to the 2008- to current EVO X and 2009 to current RalliArt.
I had a 2010 X come in for a tune last week. The car had basic mods just installed so it should have been good for a “before” pull on the dyno. After the before pull I’ll put in a boost pill and do the blue relay swap at the same time. Before the full pull I tipped into the throttle at 3500 rpm to check boost and AFR. It was super lean almost 12:1 afr. For a drop in filter and cat back exhaust it should have been high 10:1 or low 11s at least.
So I went straight for the fuel relay and swapped it with the blue one. AFR went right back to where it should. Bad black relay caught red-handed. So I figured cut it open to see what exactly is going on in there.
Cut open relay:
Lever assy that the coil pulls sideways and pushes down on the contacts:
I can only guess someone had the bright idea to make a low profile relay by laying the coil on its side. When energized it pulls a lever sideways that pushes down on the contacts.
Maybe the little lever idea don’t quite make enough pressure on the contacts to keep a good connection? And/or the contact material is just not up to the job.
Here are both sides of the contacts of the dead relay:
Pics of the contacts from a “working” realy from a 2010 EVO X:
Already showing signs of impending death Here are pics from a 2011 EVO X black relay with about 4k miles on it. Already not looking pretty:
Just for reference, we are talking about this relay in the fuse box under the hood:
This dead relay did not make a noise when shook. I can only imagine how dead for how long it would have to go before the contact actually burned off and rattled around inside. Do not rely on the salt shaker test to see if you have a dead relay. Also these pics show that it slowly degrades over time. It isn’t just working fine and then dies.
I see many threads with people speculating that at some point that EVO Xs or RalliArts get the better relay. I have yet to see a car come in the shop with an upgraded relay off the showroom floor.
Bottom line, it is just a crappy cheap relay that has no business doing an important job. Every time you are in and out of boost it is clicking on and off. That makes a little arc that slowly degrades the surface. The worse it gets, the more resistance you have and the more arc it makes. Every black relay is slowly eating its self. Either buy any upgraded one or at least do a shell game of swapping it with another less used black relay. By default every EVO X we tune gets a blue relay installed. Maybe 1 out of 10 Xs that come in already have an upgraded relay installed. All Xs should have a blue or green relay installed ASAP.
Mike W
I got curious and just popped the lid off a blue one. Looks like a proper relay inside. In the black relay the contact points look like a melted on blob of something. In the blue relay they are thicker, more substantial looking. The magnetic action is direct so it may mean a higher clamping force for a better connection.
Mike W
hmm i would bet a little search thru a good electrical supply mcmaster carr or like could yeild a high quality unit. got a schematic?
Mike,
How much does that blue relay cost?
RALLI//////////ART
Buying a blue relay from the dealer or EVO specialist yields a high quality unit. Like any relay, two of the pins do the switching, two of the pins get switched.
Blue relays are about $11
Mike W
Thanks Mike,Originally Posted by Mike W
Ill pick it up when I come in for the Down pipe install within the next few weeks.
RALLI//////////ART
Thanks for shipping a blue one to me Mike(nowhere near a dealer). I cut open my black relay today at work just out of curiosity. 16k mi on the 100% stock car so far. The contact pads on mine aren't as bad as the ones you pictured above but there is definitely discoloration. I didn't have any symptoms yet but I sure wouldn't trust this relay to last 100k miles.
who would design a magenetic solenoid to be used on its side.... someone should go back to engineering school for that one...:/