"How I Role " Needs some engine advice

[cookieheadjenkins]

Hey Guys First of all I wanted to say that you guys all have some "bad aas" rides in here holly shit, every car in here I see is nicer than mine in every way. I just bought my 2008 Evo "MR", It came from one of the sales guys that works for me and he's probably one of the most anal guys I've ever seen when it comes to his car. Every time he gets in it he lets it warm up for 15 min before he drives it and hes the original owner as well. Now the draw back to the car is it just turned 100k miles but There's hardly even a stone chip, the inside is immaculate, And with all the modifications on the car I couldn't turn it down. If I didn't tell you it had that many freeway miles ud never guess it. People that don't know cars that much always think its brand new "its that nice". Ive got a bunch of cars from a SL500 to a Tahoe to a my daily driver a Nissan Hybrid and the Evo is probably my favorite. The car has the following modifications
The exhaust is done from theturbo all the way to the tips.
It does have an intake but it uses the stock airbox to bemore stealth.
Here is a list of all the engine mods:

AMS widemouth downpipe.
Ultimate Racing test pipe.
Tanabe Medallion Touring exhaust with torque solutionurethane mounts.
Perrin inlet tube.
Perrin foam filter.
Road Race Engineering 3-port boost solenoid.
Deatschwerks fuel pump.
Hyundai Genesis Coupe idler pulleys (OEM pulleys areplastic... Hyundai pulleys are metal.)
Road Race Engineering dyno tune (the equivalent of a chipbut custom tuned specifically for the car while on a 4WD dyno. I also had the transmission tuned by KozmicMotorsports. They modified the shiftingand removed the 1st gear throttle limit.)
Road Race Engineering dual transmission coolers.
Swift Sport Mach springs.
Whiteline sway bars front and rear.
Girodisc 2-piece slotted front brake rotors.
Girosisc 1-piece slotted rear brake rotors.
StopTech street performance pads.
Muellerized stainless steel brake lines.
Motul RBF600 brake fluid.
2010+ Evo taillights (black surround instead of red.)
MR Touring rear spoiler.
Japanese Evo RS front lower inlets (they remove the foglights so more air flows to the transmission coolers.
"HERES WHERE I NEED ADVICE" The cars fast I believe the original owner said about 320 to the wheels I think anyway. you guys might now more than me so if im wrong please say s0. I wanna bump the horse power up in the 500 range and from what I can tell from reading all your guys posts it looks to be I need to add a bigger turbo to accomplish that, I worry about the car having that kind of millage should I rebuild the engine now or will it take the bigger turbo? What other modification should I make to the car if I add the bigger turbo. Like the pistons and the rods ect... Im not a mechanic by any means, so I will have to have the work done by a shop if you have any u could recommend, please do. I live in Valencia Ca. I would like to have the car be reliable, as Im not mechanic lol Its not my daily driver so it sits most of the time but has anyone got any recommendations as to what I can do to the car to get that kind of hp. Maybe Its possible to get the car there with out a bigger turbo ? yes no not sure but maybe it makes more sense to drop a complete motor in the car and just take the current out. Clueless any help would be greatly appreciated. Oh yeah its a paddle shifter car if that's important Thanks all im new so if eve said anything stupid laugh away but then maybe give me some advice Id like a car like all the rest of you guys im jealous of all of you thanks again Cookiehead jenkins ......"out" ps the dyno sheet is attached

[ElFacil]

If you're looking to make 500hp, yes, you will need a built motor, upgraded turbo, fuel system mods, upgraded intercooler, and expensive clutch upgrades. Its substantially more expensive to get an X with an SST to make that kind of power with any reliability than it is for a 5 speed.

See Mike W's post here: http://www.socalevo.net/threads/2216...=1#post3818037

[Mike W]

Mike's car needs a clutch before the power goes any higher than it is now. Budget about $3,800 installed for that. After (or when) it gets its clutch upgraded then you can upgrade the turbo and/or run E85. If you want to get the maximum out of your bigger turbo, E85 and your new clutches, then build a motor. The average guy spends about $6k building and installing a motor with pistons and rods and a fresh valve job. I am sure it is also time for a timing chain, oil pump chain, tensioners, sprockets and more other maintenance things too. 100k mile cars need love too. Especially if you are looking to up the power significantly over stock on a car that has already been running higher HP for years.

Mike W

[cookieheadjenkins]

thanks for responding mike....dumb question whats e85 also if I do the 3800 to the tranny will it last? is it smarter to buy an engine and build that or just build the one I have. The 6k you responded with im assuming is using my current motor? The 6k im also assuming is a bigger turbo? what kinda horse power can I expect for that much money probably what 400. Is there anything I can do to it now to gain some more hp without going to a bigger turbo

[cookieheadjenkins]

it sounds like u know the car lol It came from one of my sales guys mike marr, I don't know if u know him or not

[Mike W]

Yes I know Mike, that is why I responded. Maybe stop by the shop sometime. You need some long conversations and lots of research. Most of which would have been best before buying the car

$3,800 is SSP clutches, fluid, filter, labor, shipping, and more labor. It takes two men and a boy to put those suckers in. If you get new clutches then you shouldnt have any problems with your clutches. You can still have problems with your transmission. Clutches are not transmissions. Same general area, different parts and transmission is tons more money than clutches.

$6000 minimum is for a built motor. You can spend a lot more, not much less though. Figure about $3k of that is the built short block. Then you have to buy gaskets, head studs, get a valve job, install it all with fluids, new water pump, oil pump, timing chain side of the motor stuff, fluids and other 100k mile stuff. Would save some money on the clutch labor to do it along with building a motor.

Turbo is not included with a motor. A good upgraded turbo runs at least $1500 and up to $2200. For this upgraded turbo you need larger injectors and an upgraded fuel pump. Turbo install labor is greatly reduced when putting it on when the motor is out.

Most people dont go ape shit on modding EVO X MRs. (see the linked thread) God made GSRs for that. And EVO 9 GSRs specifically for going ape shit crazy big power on. God made X MRs for the realities of daily life in So Cal. Sitting in traffic and the occasional canyon run and track day. Which is exactly what Mike built his car for and it served him well for 100k miles doing exactly that. To take a EVO X MR with 100k fun miles on it to the next level is going to cost you come coin. You would be the only 500 whp MR in So Cal. You are standing at the edge of the slippery slope of the money pit and looking at taking a big step in :-)

Mike W

[cookieheadjenkins]

Uve done a lot of the work on mikes car from what mike has said. is it nice car? its maxed out on hp im assuming with out taking the jump into the slippery slope u mentioned, is that what your saying. So if I wrote u a check for 6000+2200+3800............ 12k I could have the only MR in socal with 500 plus hp? can u do any better than that? would it be reliable or have to spend 60% of its life in your shop and 20% on a flat bed going back and forth to your shop and 20% in the canyons. Would it be cheaper to buy a motor already done and just swap it ? are there any out there for sale that could be bought reasonable, that you know of? I like the paddle shifters. Im 48 and am over shifting. if I did all this would it be pretty fast on and off the track. with the upgraded tranny would it last ?

[zeRep85RA]

Uve done a lot of the work on mikes car from what mike has said. is it nice car? its maxed out on hp im assuming with out taking the jump into the slippery slope u mentioned, is that what your saying. So if I wrote u a check for 6000+2200+3800............ 12k I could have the only MR in socal with 500 plus hp? can u do any better than that? would it be reliable or have to spend 60% of its life in your shop and 20% on a flat bed going back and forth to your shop and 20% in the canyons. Would it be cheaper to buy a motor already done and just swap it ? are there any out there for sale that could be bought reasonable, that you know of? I like the paddle shifters. Im 48 and am over shifting. if I did all this would it be pretty fast on and off the track. with the upgraded tranny would it last ?

Just stop by RRE!

P.S. A SST w/ 100K! Ive searched high and low for high mileage SST (for some peace of mind)
I'm currently at 73K, and climbing fast. I drive a RalliArt tuned by Mike of course

zeRep

[Mike W]

You set your spending budget and that will set your reliable HP limit... or you set your reliable HP limit and that sets your budget.

Mike W

[nechronius]

Not to be too nitpicky on the details, but assuming the stock block can hold ~360ft-lbs relatively safely, does that assumption also work at 7000rpm? In other words, 360 ft-lbs of torque at just under 7500 rpm works out to right about 500 hp. If one wanted to build up a car with a big turbo that could hold around 360ft-lb of torque all the way to the rev limiter, one could theoretically hit that 500hp mark, or get really close to it.

Now obviously if the original poster wants 500 ft-lbs of torque to go with the 500hp then a built motor is a must, but would the above hypothetical be feasible? I'd opt for the built motor at that point myself anyway. The lust for more torque for that kick in the backside feel would be too much to resist, although I'd imagine a gentler torque curve would be nicer on the SST tranny. But maybe not on the upshifts at redline anyway, so maybe a moot point...

That's why I'll stick to the 5-speed. And 330ft-lbs. For now.

[Mike W]

We keep it to 360ish torque and limit whp to about 430 max on the stock pistons and rods. If you want more than that you have to specifically axe for it, know what the hell you are doing, promise to not be sad when it lets go, sign a waiver and turn in your keyboard. For to keep the stock SST happy we'll reign things in more to 330ish pounds of torque if possible. Some turbos, E85 and stiff wastegate it is difficult to get the torque down.

Mike W

[GokuSSJ4]

Keyboard warriors. Gotta love them!'
IMO, and with the Milage the car has, i would def consider getting the block done properly and not try to set the world on fire. Especially with 100k miles...

[HMatt]

500hp sst... I love your balls!

[evodriver49]

500hp sst... I love your balls!

Lol unfortunately OP, you bought the worst evo for 500whp

[cookieheadjenkins]

Lol unfortunately OP, you bought the worst evo for 500whp

More balls than brains im thinking lol

[evodriver49]

Well I mean if you have the funds and heart to drop that much into your car than go ahead at least youll be the only big power MR in socal! Every big turbo stock block one ive seen has blown its not even funny :/

[HMatt]

One of the shops on here is building a MR track car... I don't think it's going to have that much hp though.

[BabyEvo69]

Ummmmmmmm......WHAT THE FUCK!!!

[HMatt]

Ummmmmmmm......WHAT THE FUCK!!!

What exactly are you WTF'ing?

[GokuSSJ4]

why not invest into having a well balance car, instead of trying to make your car achieve high 500whp. IMO, plenty of things to purchase if you have the budget to do so.. suspension, great set of wheels, tires, brakes (6 piston) mid or low 400 with all the tranny coolers you need, plus adding the SST clutch pack that Mike W has advise on.
upgrade the fuel system and enjoy your car....