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Thread: best over the counter motor oil?

  1. #21
    Team Knee Pads Baller Member evoempire's Avatar
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    ^Well said! I have the 08 ram 3500 Laramie 4X4 crew cab extended bed. What a badass truck!

  2. #22
    North OC Meet Coordinator R-EVOLUTION's Avatar
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    Good Read. Ive always used M1 but may give VR1 a try. Def 10w-30 or 10w-40
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  3. #23
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    What do you thnk of Penzoil? Their new platinum and ultra oil is made with natural gas now. They are currently the only ones doing this and that have this technology (according to what they (Penzoil emps) told me). I asked them about their oil but it sounds like all they keep talking about is how their oil keeps engines much cleaner than any other oil on the market currently. I work at a dealer and have spoken to a few different Penzoil reps.

  4. #24
    Not So Newbie PLAYEVO's Avatar
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    I dont if you guys have noticed as well valvoline is the only oil company that can warranty you a new engine due to lubrication problems. Check out their bottle and you will see the info I'm talking about.

  5. #25
    Amateur Pornstar Treyzian's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pwrdby4g63 View Post
    What do you thnk of Penzoil? Their new platinum and ultra oil is made with natural gas now. They are currently the only ones doing this and that have this technology (according to what they (Penzoil emps) told me). I asked them about their oil but it sounds like all they keep talking about is how their oil keeps engines much cleaner than any other oil on the market currently. I work at a dealer and have spoken to a few different Penzoil reps.
    So the manufacturing process is cleaner? That doesn't really have anything to do with how good an oil is at protecting our motors/turbos.

    Like those have said previously in this thread, check the content of each oil, and make a decision based on which oil protects your engine/turbo the best.

    Quote Originally Posted by PLAYEVO View Post
    I dont if you guys have noticed as well valvoline is the only oil company that can warranty you a new engine due to lubrication problems. Check out their bottle and you will see the info I'm talking about.
    Actually getting them to warranty it would be a bigger problem.

    Mitsu warrants our cars from alot of things... actually getting them to warranty it is another issue.

  6. #26
    Not So Newbie PLAYEVO's Avatar
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    True but when you no longer have warranty doesnt it make a difference ?

  7. #27
    KING of the GANGBANG EvoMr420's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Azian View Post
    Valvoline VR1 synthetic or conventional, I've run both back and forth depending on which one they had in stock at the store. My motor/car has more miles and much harder miles than most of the garage queens and "daily drivers" on this forum. 25 track days or so, and almost 140k miles on the factory long block.
    Since everyone's necrobumping....

    Damn that's impressive
    25 track days... Nice!
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  8. #28
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    Whiskers's Avatar
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    that was a borderline necrobump, but if you guys see cheesy one liners, report them.

  9. #29
    My personal fav is Redline and I've used them all except LubriMoly mentioned above. Change with different brands and look at the oil when it comes out to see which is better, though it'd have to be roughly the same driving conditions and mileage.

  10. #30
    I personally use mobil 1 but I believe oil can only perform well given the filter its pair with, no?

  11. #31
    This is some great information. Mobil 1 has served me well for the past 120000 miles.

  12. #32
    I would go with BradPenn and you can find them at some local NAPA stores.

  13. #33
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    Mobil 1 all the way. 100,000+ and still going strong

  14. #34
    Evolved jiGGypiGGy's Avatar
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    don't you love that new oil feeling, your engine is just a bit smoother quieter, revs nice and smooth. then after a few tanks its just get kinda normal. then one day you get in your car and it feels dirty, its loud and seems in pain at high rpms. That's when I change mine.

    I change my oil it seems about 1500-2500 miles. I used to care what it was, Eneos or whatevs. Now thou if its Fully Synthetic ill use it. IMHO any decent syn will work if you change it enough. I know the GT-R forums are all about the monthly oil change. for this 14 I used the RP break in oil and then RP-xpr 5-30. I think in SoCAl coastal inland, we could run a 0-40 would be perfect.

  15. #35
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    Not good to switch oil all the time. Some of them don't mix well. There's a chemical balance that needs to be considered. A quart of oil is two things: about 85% oil and 15% additives. Additive package X may not be compatible with additive package Y.

    Oil is sort of like gas, in that there are 3 companies that actually manufacture synthetic base oils: ExxonMobil, Chevron Phillips Chemical, and The JX Nippon Oil and Energy Co. (we know the latter as Eneos)

    There are 3 main additive companies: Oronite, Lubrizol, and Infineum. And while there are a TON of companies who "make" oil, it is how they formulate their additive packages that sets them apart. Unless you are doing the chemistry to prove compatibility, everytime you introduce a new variable into the balancing act, you are rolling the dice. Granted, you drain the oil at each change, but not all of it leaves the motor. It's best to find an oil you like, that suits the needs of your engine, and then stick with it.

    modern motor oils are very simple mixtures of very complex ingredients. Choosing the right components of the right chemistry in the right dosages is a real balancing act, as each of the components have their own pluses and minuses and can interact or compete with each other.
    More here: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/whats-in-your-motor-oil/

  16. #36
    Brad penn 20w50 runs great with my Fp green/ AMS 3.75 IC/ Turboback exhaust/ Kelford 272 cams/ Kigley Beehive spring's & retainers/ Rc 1000injectors/ Walboro 255/
    Tuned by Reese Tuning on E85

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