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Thread: p0300 code after timing belt change

  1. #1
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    p0300 code after timing belt change

    Hoping someone might have some insight. I know what the code means. I already changed and properly torqued spark plugs. Quick rundown, I began the timing belt and everything that goes with it(water pump, pulleys, oil pump shaft belt & pulley, etc.) about a year or so ago, and due to my health and work was no able to complete the job until just recently. I had removed the #1 plug just to find tdc. Upon completing the job, during the test drive, chk eng light came on after 10 mins of test drive. Came up p0300, changed all the plugs as I had forgotten to do so during the timing belt install. So, after properly gapping and torqueing the plugs, went on yet another test drive and everything was fine. No chk eng light, so I drove it pretty hard just to be sure, and still nothing. The car had very little fuel, light had come on during test drive, and mind you this fuel had been sitting I would say for at least 1.5yrs or so. Stopped at 76, topped off the tank. Drove it home, all was good. Next day, my brother was driving me to a dr. appointment, which is like 5 mins from the house, very easy driving, and out of nowhere, chk eng light pops up. After dr. we go home, and again p0300. So I am aware that I should probably change the wires as well, By the way, this is an '06 evo ix se, 73,xxx miles on it, and bone stock, always has been. It is weird that it came on during such a short and easy drive. I know maybe the old fuel might be giving the injectors/fuel filter an issue, or at least I am assuming. Loooking for some advice, as the car was prior to the timing belt service. I realize that the car sat for a long ass time, but just seems odd that this would happen as it was fine prior. I am thinking that it has to do with the old fuel, but we had put a full tank of brand new gas in it, unless something go stirred up from the tank due to the long inactivity. Anyhow, any thoughts and or advice would be really appreciated. Otherwise I suppose I will just bring it up the street to KT Motoring in Chatsworth. Just, I tend to want to be able to problem solve on my own, especially something like this. Thanks for taking the time to read and if theres anything I left out that could possibly help to better diagnose the issue, plz post so I can properly update. Thanks again.

  2. #2
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    Dam.... no love. I have aearced around and alot of peeps just disable, which i just cannot see a reason to do in this situation, car is bone stock, and had no issues prior to a)sitting for about 2yrs and b)before getting started in that 2yr period did the 60k mile service. Only thing I didn't do was change plug wires or coil packs, not sure if packs need to be changed. Car seems to run fine, idles fine, no sputter or rough idle etc. Anyone with some success in getting this problem solved. I was thinking of starting next by replacing wires and also checking injectors. Any help would be ao greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

  3. #3
    Canyon Racer phillies23's Avatar
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    Timing belt change recently. . Possibly your crankshaft sensor is failing

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    Amateur Pornstar Treyzian's Avatar
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    Only solution is to just check everything. Since you're stock, best option would be to find somebody to switch wires, injectors, etc. or buy some used ones. Since the car's been sitting for 1.5 years,

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    Thanks for the responses, i was going to buy new wires just because it wouldnt be a bad thing to do. Also thought maybe taking out and cleaning the egr valve might be something worth doing? I did read a couple of people had the crank position sensor go bad on them. The other thing is, that the car does not run poorly as a lot of other people who've experienced this problem mention that the car runs rough or sputters at idle, this thing sounds as though it did the day I bought it, even when driving it. I just don't get into it at all, just to be safe. If I get the cable that you can jook your laptop up to the car with, I've heard it's possible to see exactly what sensor or item is throwing/triggering the code? Was considering this as well, would not be a bad investment.

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    Was gonna purchase the evoscan cable. I have been driving the car since this was posted, and i have used a couple of fuel treatments thinking maybe some of the fuel had gotten a bit gummed up. Onenight I hot in the car, and the light had gone off... wtf, am i dreaming? It stayed off for quite some time, and I wasn't going to question it, then bam, came back on randomly. The only thing i notice, is the quickest little sputter when the SES light is triggered, other than that, the car runs tip top or so it sounds and feels. Guess I am going to purchase the evoscan and see what it is exactly that is throwing the code. Has anyone done this? If so has anyone had any luck in tracing back this gremlin of a problem? Thx for any responses.

  7. #7
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    Mitsubishi's strategy for checking for random missfire on the EVO 8/9 is totally whack. It is not to be relied upon for anything. If you feel your car missfireing, check it out or get it checked out. Having the code means nothing useful.

    Mike W

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    Thanks Mike. I don't feel shit to be honest with you. The only time i have felt something is literally the milisecond the SES light goes of, there is the slightest lil sputter, if i let off and get right back into it, it seems fine. Idles fine, runs at low rpms ok, runs good at wot, etc. Im just anal i guess and i don't want to fuck anything up. Plus it just ercked me that the SES light basically came on after I completed tge timibg belt change. So I have been all concerned that it was something I did during the timing belt service etc. I just love my evo and it would kill me to know that i was the one who caused it any damage especially from being neglegent. Like i mentioned earlier, i thought it was the gas or injectors and was putting some fuel treatment theough a couole tanks of gas, and maybe it was just random, but the light had gone off on its own one evening, and stayed off for like a week or two, and then bam, like a smack in the face was back on.
    So mike, if you end up reading this again, is it worth buying the evosxan to see what sensor or what is exactly triggering the code, so that i might be able to fix it or am i just chasing my own tail? Thx for the response by the way, it is MUCH appreciated. Would the car benefit from a tune? Its bone stock evo ix se. Thx again.

  9. #9
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    The cool kids just turn it off in the ECU. The only reason the check engine codes exist is for the ECU to nag you about smog stuff. The feds mandated it so you go to the dealer and get what ever polluting thing fixed. it supposedly protects all the birdies and butterflies and polar bears or some shit. They made all the car manufacturers check for working cats, working EGRs, look for random missfires. The only problem is that the Mitsubishi 4G63 does not have enough teeth on their crank sensor trigger plate to properly check for random missfires. Their whole strategy for the 4G63 to check is whack. It is just a random guess and has always been horribly wrong. Having a P0300 on an EVO 8/9 means nothing. If your car is otherwise working fine, drive it and enjoy it. If it bugs you, throw cash at it and you have a teensy tiny chance of getting it to go away.

    Welcome to 2008 everyone :-)

    http://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ecu...0300-test.html

    Mike W

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    So, i have been driving the car with the ses light on since i posted this and the only thing i was noticing was a slight sputter on the freeway at like 70-80mph which would go away if i lifted off the throttle and then re-applied throttle. That is.... until today. I was heading home from ventura on 101 southbound, and as i was comong up the camarillo grade, around 80-85mph, felt what i thought was that sputter until i realized the car had 0 rpm and it had actually died and was coasting uphill. I safely made my way over to the shoulder and attempted to start the car. The car would crank over but no start. So shits running thru my head, the car isn't overheated, so i didnt blow the motor plus when i went to crank it over, it just kept turning over, so i know the clutch didnt let go otherwise it wouldnt be cranking, and it also wouldnt be cranking if the motor just shit on me, so the more i am thinking about it, the more I am feeling like maybe the fuel pump took a shit? The car has fuel, and a brand new battery as well. It definitely has to be fuel related and I am also guessing the this is also what has been throwing the random misfire code. I was just hoping someone might have any input as to whether it is a fuel pump, or the fuel pressure regulator, etc. All of these items are original, and bone stock, so I know a fuel pump that is 10yrs old taking a shit is def not out of the question. If anyone has any help or can maybe direct me how to proceed from here, would be a bunch of help. Thx in advance.
    Brett

  11. #11
    Canyon Racer phillies23's Avatar
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    My car craped out on me too headlights faded away , battery and brake light would flicker hopefully it's a bad alternator I plan to swap soon


    U might want to consider that as well with ur recent belt change

  12. #12
    I NEED 21 INCHES Midnightevo04's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by phillies23 View Post
    My car craped out on me too headlights faded away , battery and brake light would flicker hopefully it's a bad alternator I plan to swap soon


    U might want to consider that as well with ur recent belt change
    Mine is doing the same thing I pulled a code last night p0335 saying its crank position sensor. My brake and battery light flicker when I drive. I also so voltage spike from 14 to 16+ volts! I am going to change alternator soon. Weird thing about my car is sometimes it starts and sometimes It doesnt I usually have to move it by pushing it then it will start. I thought it was my starter but that seems to be working fine when I did a compression test check. This leaves me to suspect either the alternator or crank position sensor. I also replaced the battery not long ago.

  13. #13
    Canyon Racer phillies23's Avatar
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    im afraid of taking my car to a dealer ship and walking out with a


    Final Edition EVO X hahahahahahahahah



  14. #14
    Canyon Racer phillies23's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Midnightevo04 View Post
    Mine is doing the same thing I pulled a code last night p0335 saying its crank position sensor. My brake and battery light flicker when I drive. I also so voltage spike from 14 to 16+ volts! I am going to change alternator soon. Weird thing about my car is sometimes it starts and sometimes It doesnt I usually have to move it by pushing it then it will start. I thought it was my starter but that seems to be working fine when I did a compression test check. This leaves me to suspect either the alternator or crank position sensor. I also replaced the battery not long ago.


    yah its a head buster dude


    i just recently purchased a new battery and it sucks. I have a Turbo Timer and Voltage gauge so i would see it spike and drop to a point where the car would stall

    the crank position sensor is right next to the balance belt and alternator and i had that replaced last year and this thing keeps on taking a dump and i would get that famous p0300

    the Starter too i swapped that thing out and was able to see my flywheel in solid condition.

    shit at that point i should have swapped new Motor mounts and did my basic 130k Service on the Ebo but oh well

    i also checked my coil packs and im good so hopefully once i get that alternator fixed i get the car running


    to the OP !!!!

    its a process of elimination at this point you mentioned its stock so try to list down items you might want to replace

  15. #15
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    haha, shit, i really don't want to replace anything, I looked for over 2 years for this ride, and I fucking love it. I mean, I really don't think it is the battery, or the alternator, or the car would still start and run on battery power til the battery died. Like I said, the car fucking cranks and almost sounds like a dirtbike trying to start, like theres just a bit of gas getting into it. I honestly think the pump might have shit, but I def feel like fuel is not getting to the combustion chamber. I guess I could take off the injectors and see if gas is squirting out. I was hoping someone else might have had a stock fuel pump that went bad, and it could be as simple as pulling out the sending unit, pulling out the stock pump, and then throwing in an aftermarket or new stock one. Just thought someone might have had a similar story and had it fixed is all. thanks for all the replies though. I am down to replace things as long as they are things that can rectify the problem. So if anyone has any input on what other things could be fuel relate, like the fuel pump, the fuel regulator, MAP sensor?, I just know that it shouldn't have anything to do with alternator, or battery, i just tried to turn it over again, hoping that maybe it had something to do with it being cooled off. Nada, just cranks, plenty of juice. But it just doesn't seem to be getting fuel. So, maybe tomorrow I can check to see if fuel is being sent to the rail before ordering a new fuel pump. Could the fuel pressure regulator be bad, or would it at least run, but maybe run like crap? I almost am thinking as I write this that it is the fuel pump or the entire fuel sending unit from the fuel tank has gone bad. Thanks for any input, it is all greatly appreciated.
    Brett

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike W View Post
    The cool kids just turn it off in the ECU. The only reason the check engine codes exist is for the ECU to nag you about smog stuff. The feds mandated it so you go to the dealer and get what ever polluting thing fixed. it supposedly protects all the birdies and butterflies and polar bears or some shit. They made all the car manufacturers check for working cats, working EGRs, look for random missfires. The only problem is that the Mitsubishi 4G63 does not have enough teeth on their crank sensor trigger plate to properly check for random missfires. Their whole strategy for the 4G63 to check is whack. It is just a random guess and has always been horribly wrong. Having a P0300 on an EVO 8/9 means nothing. If your car is otherwise working fine, drive it and enjoy it. If it bugs you, throw cash at it and you have a teensy tiny chance of getting it to go away.

    Welcome to 2008 everyone :-)

    http://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ecu...0300-test.html

    Mike W
    By the way, I meant to ask, so were you saying I should just be like all the "cool" kids and have the test disabled in the ECU? I am just anal like that and like to be able to problem solve, but I also don't want to throw stupid money at something that I may or may not be able to fix.
    Brett

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